{Shoptalk} Vincom Center – Saigon’s shiny new mega-mall

Liz / / 1 Comment


Saigon is not a city known for its mall culture. Sure, there are a couple of small malls like Saigon Centre, Tax Centre and Paragon out in Phu My Hung, but most pale in comparison to those found in Bangkok or Singapore or other large Asian cities…until now!

Vincom Center opened this weekend – a ‘real’ mall right in the heart of Dong Khoi Street, Saigon’s glitzy main drag. While some naysayers may bemoan the mall’s detraction from bustling markets and small, independent businesses, most Vietnamese people would probably disagree – Vincom Center’s presence propels Saigon into the new Asia, a continent aspiring to prosperity and consumerism and flashing one’s cash. Evidence? The hordes and hordes of Vietnamese visitors to Vincom on the weekend dressed to impress and posing for photos both inside and out. The people watching was just as much a spectacle as checking out the shops!

As for those – it’s basically a mix of everything Saigon has to offer plus a few newbies, all in one convenient, air-conditioned building (no more dodging motorbikes and waffle ladies and dying in the heat to get from one favourite store to another). There are high-end brands like Furla, Armani and Jimmy Choo (though it’s not open yet), mid-range places like French Connection, Mango, Levis, Converse, La Senza and Accessorize, and a whole floor of kids clothing and toys (among the brand names was one of my favourites – a dodgy ‘fallen off the back of a truck’ shop selling similar stuff to Saigon Square with some great 50,000 dong/US$2.50 pieces – fresh from the factory floor, but a bit lost enroute to the US or wherever!).


As for food, there are ice-cream chains Fanny’s, Bud’s and Snowee’s, a second outlet of one of my favourite cafes – Kita, the ubiquitous Pho 24 and Highlands Coffee, Thai Express and some Korean chains, and a second Saigon outlet of MOF – the cool Japanese dessert place I blogged about recently.

Overall, I think it offers a welcome change to the Saigon retail scene, and in the hot season, a cool and comfortable place to escape to if you’re up for schlepping ’round the shops. Now if only there was a decent bookstore….

Vincom Center, cnr Dong Khoi & Le Thanh Thon, D1, Saigon

{Saigon Eats} Banh Xeo 46A

Liz / / 11 Comments

Why has it taken me all this time to try Banh Xeo 46A?! That, I do not know – but what I do know is that this place is a must-try for those wanting an authentic, cheap and delicious local dining experience in Saigon. Its namesake banh xeo is the house specialty – a thin, light yet fluffy pancake reminiscent of a South Indian dosa folded over shrimp, pork and bean sprouts, all wrapped up in a selection of leafy greens (including mustard leaves and mint) and dipped in nuoc mam, Vietnam’s famous fish sauce based condiment.



Despite Banh Xeo 46A’s widespread popularity and listing in many guidebooks, it was jam-packed with Saigonites during our visit (as in the real kind, not expats!). The outdoor restaurant features long metal tables, little plastic stools and a boisterous atmosphere, with swift, efficient service better than that often encountered in far higher end places in the city. They even managed to whip up a non-meat option for my vego friend (yes, just bean sprouts in pancake – but with the accompanying greens and a special non-fishy dipping sauce, she swore she loved it!).

The cha gio (fried spring rolls) were also amazingly tasty – some of the best I’ve had. Am thinking of making a weekly pilgrimage!
Banh Xeo, 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1, Saigon

{eat pray love} Will you see the movie?

Liz / / 8 Comments
I’m really looking forward to seeing Eat Pray Love the movie when it comes out later this year (not til August apparently). I did enjoy the book – overall – but I somehow can’t relate to Elizabeth Gilbert’s personal journey and all her angst. I also think it’s kind of funny that she’s supposedly ‘risking everything’ and on an ‘incredible journey’ when she’s just travelling/living in 3 places for 12 months. That’s great, but also kind of normal. Isn’t it?! Anyway – I still look forward to seeing how the book will come to life on the big screen, and will probably want to book a ticket to Ubud straight afterwards (my current fixation by the way!). What about you – did you enjoy the book and will you see the movie?

{behind the blog} Charlie Hunton of Sea Circus

Liz / / No Comments


Some of the art that will grace Sea Circus’ stylish walls
The second installment of ‘behind the blog’ profiles Charlie Hunton of Sea Circus – also the name of her new Bali-based restaurant (think a design blog come to life!). Her blog showcases the aesthetics and inspiration behind the evolution of the restaurant, plus snapshots of the best bits of Bali life.

Where do you live/where are you now?
I’m lucky enough to say that I live in Bali – ‘the island of the gods’.
What are you currently…

…reading?
I’m reading ‘The food of love’ by Anthony Capella. I have only just started it but already it has whisked me away to the backstreets of Rome. The love triangle is as delicious as the Italian food, and Capella’s writing is as witty as ever… although the coffee geek in me slightly prefers his other book ‘The various flavours of coffee’ which has one of the most uncontrollably funny protagonists I have ever read. A must.
…listening to?
The Eden CDs. The origins of this collection are uncertain, but rumours say this is a 5CD set of CD-R’s that James Lavelle left behind at the 2003 eden festival. It’s a brilliant collection of unkle mixes or unkle related recordings. I’m currently putting together the restaurant playlist so have lots of friends sending me new/rare/classic music. Any music suggestions are welcomed and encouraged…
…watching?
Well literally I’m watching endless parades of Balinese hindus marching to the temple – they have taken over the streets with incense, gamulan music, flags and floats. Each village is going together to prepare their village temples for ‘nyepi’ – the silent day. The Balinese believe this is the day that evil spirits fly over the island so they try to make the island look dead so that the spirits pass over. Yhey turn off all the electricity – so it looks like no one’s home. You are also meant to be really quiet and no one is allowed out of their house [apart from the local ‘pacalan’ who patrol the streets intervening mischievous/disrespectful tourists].

…eating?
The best mie goreng in Bali – in my current favourite jaunt, ‘biku’.

…wearing?
Shorts and tee and it’s still too hot!

…planning?
A grand opening party for my new restaurant ‘Sea Circus’. The date is April Fool’s. The theme is ‘circus freak’ so I am planning staff outfits, entertainers, prizes, surprises, food, wine, music, guestlist, photographer, press… oh and designing my own costume too [i am the lion tamer!].

…obsessed with?
The perfect cup of coffee [literally taken out a small mortgage on my beautiful new synesso cyncra coffee machine and electronic mazzer grinder].

Favourite cuisines?
I love the balance of Japanese food – unlike many other cuisines it feels so good for you and tastes so subtly delicious. I also love the current trend of smaller share dishes; I always like to try lots of different tastes and flavours and love the social ritual that goes with sharing food, so the concept for my restaurant is ‘sharing’ with a focus on seafood.

Favourite travel destinations?
So many, too many, and far too many more on the list. But the place I kind of want to go to every time I travel is France; I’ve lived in its mountains, by its sea and in its beautiful capital city. and I adore it. Laid back surf sessions in Hossegor, crazy summer fetes in Pays Basque, apperos with farmers in Correze, l’opera and l’entrecote in Bordeaux, chateaus and aristo’s in le Loire… and then there’s Paris. My head still seems to be stuck in the rues pavees of le 14eme.

If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
In South America – where I would do nothing but dance salsa and speak Spanish.

Who/what inspires you?
When Gene Wilder was Willy Wonka – ‘We are the music makers and we are the dreamers of dreams.’

3 of your must-read blogs?
These women are 3 of the many that inspire me on a daily basis.
Thanks Charlie!

{Saigon} Loving/Hating

Liz / / 10 Comments

Gorgeous L’Usine

LOVING

  • Sunday dim sum at Shang Palace – no trolley ladies but great taro and chicken balls, bbq pork buns, soup dumplings, har cao, everything!
  • Imagining that new fashion/lifestyle store L’Usine is my apartment (but in New York!), with its 1930s garment factory style furnishings and fitouts, art gallery and soon-to-be cafe
  • That there’s a new organic vegetable store in An Phu with produce fresh from Dalat – planning to go there this week and am food-nerdily excited
  • Snap Cafe – sand, playground, toys and friends for little Z, lentil/feta/beetroot/bacon salad for me
  • Planning escapes to Bangkok, Hoi An and Hanoi over the next few months
  • Friends and family visiting in April
  • Making pumpkin and sweet potato soup with veges from the market
  • (…or hating?) ridiculous 80s compilations played in taxis (think Foreigner, Air Supply and Belinda Carlisle!)
  • Finding this blog post on ‘Stuff that Saigon Expat People Like’ (scroll towards the end for the actual list)
HATING
  • That a box of frozen blueberries costs over US$20…and lamely buying them anyway ”because I need them in my breakfast smoothie!”
  • Impromptu karaoke sessions outside my window
  • The rising temperatures – hello hot season
  • Random power cuts
  • Being greeted with “you look fat today!” and a big grin because it’s meant to be a compliment
  • That some of the things I like are on the above mentioned ‘Stuff that Saigon Expat People Like’ list!
Image courtesy L’Usine

{behind the blog} Leela Cyd

Liz / / 3 Comments
Welcome to my latest series on A Girl in Asia – ‘behind the blog’ – delving into the people behind some of the blogs I love to read, and perhaps you do (or will!) too.
First to be profiled is Leela Cyd, whose eponymous blog has a strong food and travel bent and chronicles her adventures with her husband as they traverse the globe. I met up with Leela on her Saigon stint a couple of months ago, and she’s as friendly, fun and creative in real life as she is in her blog!



Behind the blog: LEELA CYD
Where do you live/where are you now?
I am based out of Portland, Oregon in the US, but have been living out of my suitcase for the past 6 months on a big trip – stopping for lengthy visits (renting a flat) in India, Vietnam and now, Istanbul, Turkey. I’m currently sitting on a peach-colored Victorian sofa in our flat in the Nisantasi neighborhood in Istanbul. I love this city!
What do you blog about?
I blog primarily about food (mainly recipes I’ve developed), travel and everything that happens in between. My blog is also a home for my travel articles and images I sometimes post/feature on other sites.
What are you currently…
…reading?
I am reading a wonderful book called “Istanbul, City of the World’s Desire” by Phillip Mansel about the city and its colorful history under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. For anyone traveling to Turkey or interested in history, it is a fabulous account.
…listening to?
I listen to music sure – the Beatles and Sam Cooke mostly, but more often – I listen to podcasts. I love this American Life, Good Food (KCRW, hosted by Evan Kleiman), Savage Love (Dan Savage), Npr’s culturetopia and food stories . . . as well as books on CD. I love the feeling of being read to. And with all my podcasts, I can feel connected to something familiar – mostly American stories – while being so far away. I just cannot bring myself to do the dishes or other house chores without listening to a story.
…watching?
My favorite show is HBO’s the Wire. we just re-watched a few of our favorite seasons (1 and 3) and it was still so good. A warning though – this show is hugely addictive, I don’t recommend getting involved with it unless you are prepared to spending your evenings completely glued. We also just found a new site that streams interesting art films from various sources – www.ubu.com and watched a film about Iran by Albert Lamorisse (the same person who made ‘The Red Balloon’). It was an amazing film which he died shooting, in a tragic helicopter accident.
…eating?
I’m super into lentil soup right now – it is sold all over Istanbul for only 2 dollars (US) a bowl and it is so satisfying and simple. They use a lot of lemon and dried mint, so it has a unique flavor I’ve never had in a lentil soup before. It’s the perfect dinner when paired with a nice crusty piece of bread.
…wearing?
I’m actually wearing a Turkish house dress. In every new country we visit, I buy at least one article of night-time wear, be it pajamas or a night gown or house coat of some sort, and wear it around the hotel or apartment we are staying at. It’s a great way to get a slice of local life and it’s very cozy.
…planning?
I’m planning a way to teach vegetarian cooking classes when we arrive home to Portland in June.
…obsessed with?
finding the perfect slice of cake. i love cake.
Favourite cuisines?
Turkish, Indian, Vietnamese, Italian – I don’t think I’ve met a certain cuisine I didn’t like. I’m a devout eater, and will try anything not involving animals.
Favourite travel destinations?
Panjim, Mumbai, Bangalore and Belur/Halebidu in India, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Sevilla, Spain, Amsterdam (where my husband and I really fell in love), New York City, Santa Barbara (my hometown!), California, Istanbul and of course, Portland, Oregon.
If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
I’d live in New York City, it’s a playground for adults – there’s so much good food, art and fashion all in one place … I don’t think I’d run out of fun there. Especially if I was living in a fantasy world where money flowed like a river straight into my pocket.
Who/what inspires you?
My family and my husband inspire me the most to dream big and work hard – my parents are both teachers, artists and writers – my brother the most creative writer and teacher I know, and, lastly, my husband Dave is my favorite painter, thinker, dreamer in all of the world. His interest in seeing, tasting and experiencing everything to the fullest is my biggest inspiration, especially during this crazy travel period of our lives.
3 of your must-read blogs?
I love — thekitchn.com (not really a blog)
garancedore.fr/en — French Fashion glamour lady writing, photos and illustration at its best
eatingisart.com — Tricia’s love of food, art, health and design come together in her amazing site. She is an inspired individual, and good friend in Portland.
Thanks Leela!

My 3 Best Kept Travel Secrets – for Tripbase

Liz / / 5 Comments
Travel ideas website Tripbase have initiated a travel secrets project, where bloggers reveal their best kept travel secrets then tag some fellow bloggers to do the same, with the results to be featured in an upcoming e-book. I was tagged by Cate from Caffeinated Traveller to take part, so here’s my contribution. I’ve decided to base it on the sometimes underrated Cambodian capital (and my former home of 2 and a half years!) Phnom Penh…

Phnom Penh – more than just girlie bars and gunfights!

Dusty, friendly, charming Phnom Penh is often overshadowed by tourist drawcard Siem Reap, with some tourists skipping the capital altogether in favour of non-stop temple exploration at Angkor Wat. Yes, Siem Reap is a fantastic place to visit, but Phnom Penh shouldn’t be forgotten! With its cliched reputation as a somewhat dangerous city where the Killing Fields and Toul Sleng genocide museum rate highly on most visitors’ must-see lists, its more cosmopolitan aspects are a revelation to those not already in the Phnom Penh know. And it offers some of the best bargains in Asia, or perhaps anywhere!! Here are but a few good things about ‘the Penh’:

Street 240’s Bliss (by name and by nature)

1. Handmade, homemade, unique shopping
A combination of factors make Phnom Penh a perfect place for some serious retail therapy. Firstly, Cambodian silk from nearby towns and villages like Takeo feature heavily in the city’s many tiny boutiques. The silk is of high quality and great value for money, with some places (like Sentosa Silk and Tabitha) selling rough or smooth varieties in a rainbow of colours for US$8-10 a metre. Cushions, bedspreads, bags and clothing made of Cambodian silk are all fantastic and unique buys.

A silk weaver at work at the aptly named ‘Silk Island’ just outside Phnom Penh

The proliferation of NGOs in the city who engage Cambodia’s needy with crafty pursuits means there are lots of unique, handmade items for sale, like wallets and bags made of recycled rice bags, handsewn soft toys for children and all things rattan for very low prices. Then there’s the influx of talented foreigners who have set up shop in the capital, resulting in some gorgeous boutiques combining European style with Cambodian artistry. Street 240 is the place to head (especially clothing and homeware store Bliss, which also houses a spa, and Waterlily for creative handmade jewellery). I could go on and on, but you’ll have to explore for yourself!!
2. Fragrant, coveted Cambodian pepper

Pepper grown in Cambodia’s south (predominantly the charming, crumbling, riverside town of Kampot) is highly fragrant and an integral part of Cambodian cuisine. In French colonial days it was highly coveted by French chefs, and graced the menus of top Paris restaurants. A resurgence of the pepper industry in recent years means Phnom Penhites are spoiled with some of the finest pepper in the world at their gastronomic disposal. The pepper is sold all over the city in souvenir-ey type shops, but for a only a few dollars you can pick up a bag of Cambodian peppercorns (organic, no less!) from Lucky or Pencil Supermarkets.

Charming Kampot – Cambodian pepper HQ
3. Ridiculously cheap alcohol
Thanks to Cambodia’s laxness with tax and penchant for all kinds of shady cross-border trade, alcohol is exceedingly cheap. Most bars will pass on the savings (think cocktails for around US$3-4 and beers from $1!) but the real bargains are to be found in the city’s supermarkets (with especially good selections at Thai Huot, Bayon and Pencil). Basic spirits like Stolichnya and Absolut vodka can be found from US$6-9, Bailey’s for US$11-12 and Grand Marnier for US$16, with everything else somewhere in between. It’s a recipe for disaster for some off the rails expats, but really, who’s complaining?!
Now for the tagging part… I’m nominating the following bloggers to share their travel secrets too:
1. Charlie from Bali Beach Bunny
2. Marie from Shantiwallah
3. Vivian from Lost in Translation

{Saigon Eats} MOF Japanese Sweets & Coffee

Liz / / 4 Comments



For a gelato fix (read – not frozen yoghurt, most Saigonites sweet cold treat of choice these days) my favourite place in the city is MOF (Ministry of Food). The Japanese dessert cafe is home to a gorgeous fish motif covered wall, a delectable display of gelato and an intriguing menu of mostly matcha flavoured desserts. Matcha rears its head in the gelato counter too, and the deep green result is strong and bitter – a glass of Japanese green tea brought to life in icy form. The Japanese tangerine is a little mild but tangy and delicious, but my absolute favourite is the Ferrero Rocher flavour. Bonus points for the well stocked magazine rack!

MOF, 30 Le Loi Blvd, D1, Saigon

{Thailand} Beach bliss in Khao Lak

Liz / / 6 Comments


We started our Year of the Tiger with a trip to Thailand, escaping a week of deserted streets and closed everything as Saigon virtually shut down for Tet (Vietnamese New Year week). We stayed 6 nights at a resort on Pakweb Beach – a long stretch of undeveloped beach just north of Khao Lak in southern Thailand. It was a very different Thai beach experience to my others – no beach bars, no (evil) buckets and no backpackers. Instead – the fairly empty beach was backed by jungle with one resort in the middle and not a dreadlocked firetwirler in sight! Luckily (as otherwise it would have been a bit TOO undeveloped for my liking) there were a few Thai beach shack restaurants tucked away at each end. We fell in love with the delicious food at a little family run hut called RimLay Seafood and ended up eating there most nights. Coconuts and larb gai – mmm….! Now – it’s back to sunny Saigon and wondering what the Year of the Tiger will hold for us!