Siem Reap’s Hotel de la Paix

Our room – complete with bed for baby

This was all ours – so relaxing!

Earlier in the week we paid a flying visit to Siem Reap and were fortunate enough to stay at the ultra chic Hotel de la Paix. What can I say but…wow! And no, they’re not paying me to say this!

Designed by the brains behind Bangkok’s Bed Supperclub, the hotel combines art deco style with Khmer touches, creating a unique and highly stylish look and feel. Our room was a two-level loft with a spiral staircase leading up to two massage tables for in-room spa treatments, with doors leading out to a private terrace complete with outdoor bathtub. The room itself had a rainforrest shower, iPod and speakers, WiFi, the most comfortable pillows ever and a spacious lounge area.

Beyond the room was an amazing pool with art-deco inspired columns and so many nooks and crannies to swim around and into. It was surrounded by lush tropical foliage like frangipani trees and traveller’s palms, with loungey day beds to chill out on. So blissful, even if our baby had to sit in a stroller poolside while we had a quick swim (things aren’t as simple as they once were!).

We also decided to finally dine at Meric, the hotel’s chic restaurant, after hearing good things about it for ages but for some reason never quite making it. It was worth the wait. While there is a set menu of innovative takes on Khmer food, we opted for the gourmet European menu and indulged in spice crusted beef tenderloin and sea scallops with cauliflower puree and citrus and licorice sauces. For dessert we shared a flourless chocolate cake with a runny centre (delicious) and bitter chocolate sorbet.The lighting, the decor and the atmosphere created a sophisticated vibe, and the food was excellent. Meric is a true culinary gem in Siem Reap and I highly recommend it!

Is Singapore really boring?!

We’re going to Singapore for 3 nights in October to meet our friends Rob and Stef who will be passing through. Surprisingly, it’ll our first time there despite all our previous travels around Asia. I’m really looking forward to it, though am a little surprised that so many friends claim it’s a boring, soulless place. Sure, it sounds very modern and sanitised, especially compared to other Southeast Asian cities, but with its cultural mix, food scene and abundance of shopping opportunities how could it possibly be boring?!!!

From the research I’ve done, the city’s Chinatown area sounds pretty cool (as do the boutique hotels – we’re planning to stay at Hotel 1929 though haven’t booked it yet), and the streets Haji Lane and Bali Lane and surrounds sound like really amazing, boutiquey little areas with great shopping and cafes – this area is definitely high on my Singapore agenda.

If you have any insights into essential Singapore must-dos (particular unique/interesting shopping spots and great cafes and restaurants) I’d love to hear from you!

Deli-cious

One of my favourite Phnom Penh restaurants, Le Duo (a Sicilian eatery with corny 80s Italian decor – think a faux leaning tower of Pisa, an overhead awning recreating the Sistine Chapel etc. – forgivable because of the amazing food) now has a deli on its premises.

We ate at Le Duo last night (I had the homemade gnocchi with gorgonzola and walnuts – so rich and amazing) and noticed the new deli for the first time. Owner Luigi then took it upon himself to give us a little guided tour and a rundown of the goods on offer.

Homemade pastas are available and there’s pesto, arborio rice, herbs, some fresh produce, lots of San Pelligrino in different sizes, Italian wines, and best of all, there’s a meat and cheese cabinet that puts Lucky’s to shame. Huge slabs of pecorino cheese and grana padano sit side by side with tasty salamis and beautiful prosciuttos (three different varieties).

He also stocks paninis and suggested a great DIY sandwich could be made for lunch if you bought some of the bread and 50 grams or so of a meat and a cheese to add – I’ll definitely be back to do just that, yum!

Le Duo, No. 17 Street 228, Phnom Penh

Back to the Penh: Top 5 things I’ll miss about Bangkok


The time has finally come to bid farewell to Bangkok and return home to Phnom Penh. We ended up in Bangkok longer than expected due to the lengthy process of getting baby Z a birth certificate then Australian citizenship, and finally, an Australian passport.

Pre-baby, our stay here provided a chance to further explore Bangkok (particularly its cafes, shops and restaurants!) and proved that if an opportunity to live here ever arose in future, we’d be more than happy to relocate. Here are the Top 5 things I’ll miss most:

1. Tasty Thai food – especially from our cheap local Thai eatery (I don’t know the English name as the sign’s only in Thai :-). In particular – their larb gai, beef yum and super sweet lemongrass ‘juice’

2. Polite people – from being given seats on the skytrain to having random strangers stop crazy traffic to let us cross the road, I’ll miss the (mostly) genuine and kind people we’ve encountered

3. Foot and head massages at our local massage parlour (although there are massages aplenty in Phnom Penh, there’s just something about Thai massage…)

4. iberry – the best…ice-cream…ever! I’m in love with their Thai flavoured sorbets (Tamarind, Lychee, Mangosteen, Salted Plum…) and their chocolatey flavours too!

5. The shopping – from battling the crowds at Chatuchak to uncovering cool finds at Suan Lum Night Bazaar, MBK and Siam Square, to ambling around huge, amazing malls like Siam Paragon, Bangkok shopping cannot be beaten

So now it’s time to head back to our dusty little Phnom Penh abode with baby in tow…and this blog can return to being Cambodia-focused once again!

Siam Square: Top 5 spots to shop and drop

Siam Square’s cute Cup B Cafe

 

I really love Bangkok’s Siam Square – a grid of short streets packed with a mixture of chain and one-off shops and cafes, with interconnecting mazes of stalls and stores in-between. It’s crowded, colourful, young and fun, and a great place to literally shop til you drop (into a plush sofa for a cup of well-deserved coffee). Here are some of my favourite Siam Square places to shop, then drop:

1. It’s happened to be a closet
It’s not a typo, it’s a nonsensical name! Inside the store (on Soi 3) is a treasure trove of weird and wonderful clothing and accessories with a vintage vibe piled haphazardly into every available space. There’s lots of decorative eye candy too – I love the little wallpapered alcove under the stairs. On the second floor is more of the same, with the addition of tiny nail and hair salons tucked away in the corners and a gorgeous cafe with comfy sofas and mismatched china (like a crazy granny’s attic). With the clothes a bit beyond the budget (think $300 dresses and clutch bags) I settled instead for an Illy coffee, allowing me to lounge around and soak up the inspirational surrounds for future dwellings I may decorate.

2. Arty shopfronts
The sois of Siam Square are home to some very unique and eye-catching shopfronts – there’s even one shop with an entrance like a front yard, complete with astroturf, a picket fence and a swing! One of my favourites was a handbag shop called Money Clip (on Soi 3) bordered by this colourful collage of wood, tiles and buttons:

3. Applique
An arty, crafty little shop on Siam Square’s Soi 4 (upstairs from accessories purveyor Nana Coco, another cool stop), Applique specialises in iron-on transfers. In the form of fruits, animals, teapots and more, the appliques can be ironed onto clothes, tote bags, cosmetic bags and anything else you can think of. I went a little overboard here and bought many different pieces, with the idea of customising some baby clothes in mind. Here’s the end result:


4. Cheap and cheerful finds in the arcades
Connecting each of Siam Square’s streets are labyrinth-like arcades, packed to the brim with bargains. It’s almost like being at Chatuchak Market. Particularly good are the cheap shoe shops with many pairs selling for around 200 baht (around US$6). Unfortunately they were always out of my size (38-39) whenever I found a pair I loved (like the yellow peep toe wedges…or the black and white striped canvas ballet slippers…). And the too-small display pair was often the last available – ‘Sorry miss, last size!’ was heard way too many times. If you’re around a size 36 you’re likely to fare a lot better. Also worth a look are some of the clothing stalls with tops for as low as 100 baht.

5. Cup B Cafe
You need more than one cafe stop on any Siam Square shopping expedition, and a good place for coffee, ice-cream or a snack is Cup B Cafe. It’s upstairs above the Lido Cinema (next to Soi 3) and is yet another place with retro/cute/kitschy decor.

There’s alot more to seek out in Siam Square, including unique, tiny clothing shops that are literally the size of wardrobes, a 60 baht shop for fun junk (like Australia’s $2 shops, or Beijing’s 10 yuan shops!), a huge Boots (the mecca of all things cosmetic and another Bangkok obsession of mine) and much, much more!

Photo essay: Bangkok street scenes

Today’s post is courtesy of a guest blogger…A Girl in Asia’s mum! Here are some colourful slices of Bangkok life she’s encountered during her stay:

Bangkok’s relentless traffic – outside Siam Paragon
Fresh flowers for sale 

Flowers and gossip
A fruity display
Service with a smile
The beauty of lotus flowers
Candy coloured traffic outside mega mall MBK
A cool rider in Bangkok’s Chinatown

A baby in Asia!


I haven’t posted anything in a while – I’ve been busy having and looking after our new baby, Zara Mae!

Kep in The Straits Times

One of my favourite Cambodian destinations, Kep, was one of eight towns featured in an article called ‘Off the beaten track’ in Singapore daily The Straits Times this Tuesday. I contributed the pics (above) for the piece and provided info on a few of my favourite Kep places – Veranda Natural Resort (the sunset pic was taken from its amazing terrace), stylish haven Knai Bang Chatt and of course, the crab shacks!

If you haven’t experienced Kep for yourself, it’s basically a ghost town (slowly springing back to life) located right on the ocean. It’s green and lush and hilly, and dotted with the ruins of 60s villas – some of which served as the holiday homes of Cambodian royalty back in the day (i.e. before things turned nasty).

King Monivong’s old villa, which you can explore
for a small fee to the caretaker 

The lookout at King Sihanouk’s villa
(imagine a sunset soiree here in the 60s!)

Kep is a peaceful little getaway – there’s not too much to do aside from eating plateloads of Kampot pepper crab, exploring the crumbling old villas and perhaps taking a walk along the oceanfront where you’ll encounter some kitsch statues, like the mermaid statue pictured in the article, or the ‘Big Crab’:


Kep has stunning sunsets, yet at other times (like rainy season) has a desolate beauty:

It’s a destination that’s slowly gaining in popularity – hopefully it will withstand development and retain its charm for years to come. I feel a Kep mini-break coming on some time in the near future!

Vanilla Garden: Dim sum and then some

A peek into Sauce bookshop at Vanilla Garden
A mask display brightens up the garden

In a similar 3-in-1 setup to Spring-Summer-Winter, Vanilla Garden in Bangkok’s Ekkamai neighbourhood houses a bookshop, dim sum restaurant and retro-themed Japanese cafe in a funky little garden setting. I first read about this place on food/travel/photography/lifestyle blog Primitive Culture and knew straight away that I’d love it!

We’ve now visited twice (so far) – the first time to have one of our all-time favourite foods (dim sum) in the Royal Vanilla restaurant, then again to check out Vanilla Cafe. And both times to peruse the bookshop, Sauce, which is design and food book oriented and conducive to browsing (I could stay there all day).

The dim sum restaurant is mod and black inside, a contemporary take on an old-world Chinese teahouse. The menu consists of a sheet of tick boxes where you select from either dim sum or other Chinese dishes (like roast duck or fried soft shell crab). We stuck with the dim sum, which was around 50 to 70 baht a basket. The ha-kau (prawn dumplings) and steamed rolls with roasted duck were our favourites.

Over at Vanilla Cafe (on a separate day that is!), we ate some delicious prawn sushi, nicely cooked gyoza and some not so inspiring miso chicken (too fatty and lacking the charcoal taste of the same dish we recently ate at Ootoya). The cafe’s furniture and decor were highlights though – 70s wooden furniture with Japanese comics and retro/vintage toys on display.


Now if only someone in Phnom Penh would latch onto this ‘three cool establishments in one’ concept – the closest thing I can think of is Elsewhere’s pool, bar and clothing shop!