Lakemba lovin’ at Jasmin’s

Lebanese perfection, plated!

The lightest, fluffiest garlic sauce, the crunchiest falafels with the softest insides, the tastiest tabouli, the smokiest chicken, the most mountainous pile of Lebanese bread you’ve ever been served, the pickle-iest pickles, you get the idea? Sounds like heaven on a plate, and indeed it is. Order a mixed plate for $15 (we had the chicken shawarma) and share it with a friend or two. The original Jasmin’s restaurant in multi-culti Lakemba is definitely worth the hop, skip and jump southwest. Simply, wow.

Jasmin’s, 30b Haldon St, Lakemba, tel: 02 9740 3589


Jasmins Lebanese Restaurant on Urbanspoon

Expat life: the aftermath

The colour and chaos of the markets (photo taken in Kratie, Cambodia)

Moving back to Australia was never going to be easy or without its issues after almost half a decade living in southeast Asia. The weird thing is, it’s actually taken about 6 months of settling back into our ‘old’ life before I’ve had the headspace to reflect and remember (and over-analyse) our time in Asia.

The grass is always greener….

When we first moved home we barely had time to look backwards with all the setting up home and re-establishing life kind of stuff going on. We even joked that our time in Asia seemed like some kind of dream – did it really happen? But slowly, little reminders crept up on us and before too long life became a full-blown comparison fest of Saigon vs Sydney, Asia vs Australia. The winner has yet to be determined. It’s the age old grass is always greener dilemma where we look back and remember the best bits of expat life in Asia and pine for it all, while conveniently forgetting the random power cuts, the incessant noise, the neverending battles with dodgy tuk tuk and taxi drivers, the meltdowns, the frustrations.

The differences…

Life at home is smoother, simpler, easier, and much more private. You go about your daily business here without a staring brigade and a barrage of questions from the neighbours and random passers-by about where you’re going and how much you just paid for your bag of fruit. No-one cares. Strangers pass each other by here with barely a cursory glance. At first I liked it, now I kind of miss my inane conversations with my friend Yen about how much each and every item of clothing we were wearing that day cost us (I don’t think she could believe her luck when she learnt of my penchant for bargains. Despite the vast socio-economic difference between us we could actually be shopping buddies and buy matching 40,000 dong tops. Which we did.)

Another difference has been the customer service in Australia compared to most other places in Asia. Sometimes, back in Sydney, we’ve sat in a cafe for a while before realising we were supposed to order at the counter. Same at bars. Of course we should know better but we’ve become so used to table service the whole help yourself mentality here has been a little strange to adjust to. And if we needed a taxi it would find us. Here, we have to book ahead… the list goes on. We were definitely spoilt in Asia, in so many ways. I don’t miss the hovering at restaurants though. Or the frequent ordering mix-ups (as one friend said – order what you want, eat what you’re given!).

What I miss…

I miss the creativity and aesthetics of so many aspects of southeast Asian life, from colourful temples and gorgeously decked out cafes, to the way fruit would be stacked so beautifully at a market – order amongst the chaos. I miss the random smiles from strangers and the well-meaning questions, the overly generous hospitality of strangers, the tropical heat, the smell of incense and grilling meat in the air, the smiley kids, the colours, the food, the plants… And the holidays. An hour or two on a plane and we could be at a tropical Asian beach, a heritage listed colonial era town, another thriving Asian metropolis.

Life in Sydney seems less global, less mobile, calmer, quieter. It’s a more grounded life with family and old friends and our own place. I still can’t decide if this is preferable to transience and the new friends and new experiences that accompany it. When I figure it out, I’ll let you know. I would be interested to hear your thoughts if you’ve lived away from home then moved back again – what did you miss? How did you cope?

Links to devour

The gorgeous Rice – I want to go! Image via Bright Bazaar

The inspiring story of how LUXE City Guides came to be

These five inventive coffees would be good to try

Cool store tour of London’s Rice via the equally colour crazy Bright Bazaar blog

Anthony Bourdain talks life, writing and food at the Sydney Writer’s Festival (if you have a spare hour to listen!) – fascinating how his life has changed so much in the last 10 years

Weekend wanderings in the inner east

Kawa on Crown Street

I can’t seem to get enough of Surry Hills and surrounds since moving back to Sydney – it’s always been a favourite, but there’s something about the energy, architecture, cafe culture and non-stop crop of cool new bars and restaurants that makes it the place I want to be right now.

A sunny but slightly chilly Saturday called for a Surry-hurst exploration on foot. First stop was cute cafe Kawa, with its tiki and tribal accents, hanging tropical plants, bountiful fruit display awaiting the juicer and mismatched vintage vibe. After fuelling up on eggs benedict and coffees we headed off on an epic walk all over the inner east, from Darlinghurst and Surry Hills across to Kings Cross and Potts Point, and eventually back to the city.

Lunch was at the very Euro La Petit Creme (french onion soup and merguez and harissa sandwich). The cafe has an old school, antiquey look and a busy, bustling vibe, an open fast paced kitchen and cool French and Spanish accented patrons.

Double happiness – rosewater, mandarin & honey; salted caramel and white choc chip
plus chocolate fondante and rasberry. Who cares that it’s winter!

Next stop was Gelato Messina, renowned for their innovative gelato flavours and often hailed as Sydney’s best gelato – now I see why. The rosewater, mandarin and honey combination was a middle eastern inspired taste trip and my overall favourite. Also devoured – the salted caramel and white choc chip, the chocolate fondante and raspberry, which were all amazingly rich and full of flavour.

We also visited The Artery, a not-for-profit gallery featuring contemporary aboriginal art. The art is actually affordable (well, by art’s standards!) and really appeals to my love of colour and pattern. I fell in love with so many stunning pieces and am seriously thinking of buying something!

Water Dreaming by Rex Winston Walford (image courtesy The Artery)

Bush Yam Dreaming by Jeannie Mills Pwerle (image courtesy The Artery)

After a wander across to Potts Point’s shops and art galleries we headed back to the city to Grandma’s, a fairly recent addition to Sydney’s small bar scene. A subterranean room is decked out in mismatched retro furniture and fittings and the cocktail list is long and enticing. Tiki and rum flavoured cocktails dominate, with a nod to prohibition era concoctions. There are a few beers like Tiger (umm, no thanks – after nearly five years in Asia I don’t want to see another Tiger for a long time, or Beer Chang, or Angkor, or 333….!). We stuck to wine and had a great Printhie Shiraz from Orange that the barman suggested (tip – the pour here is VERY generous!). Like hanging out in someone’s loungeroom, Grandma’s is a comfortable, casual and cosy affair. There was even an actual grandma having drinks there – she must have been at least 75! The clientele was a really diverse mix – definitely a welcoming and unpretentious place for a drink. Loved it!

The kitsch-fest stairwell down to Grandma’s

Kawa, 346-350 Crown St, Surry Hills, tel: 02 9331 6811
La Petit Creme, 118 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 9361 4738
Gelato Messina, Shop 1/241 Victoria St, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 8354 1223
The Artery, Shop 2 The Westbury, 221 Darlinhurst Rd, Darlinghurst, tel: 02 9380 8234
Grandma’s, basement of 275 Clarence St, Sydney, tel: 02 9264 3004

Campsie Food Festival

Taste of Senegal, beef arepa, Korean bbq, fataya

Last weekend we ventured southwest to Campsie (think Sydney’s Koreatown in the burbs) for its annual food festival, along with 20,000 other hungry souls. Giving the kim chi eating competition a miss we headed to Campsie’s main drag, Beamish Street, where several blocks were cordoned off and lined with food stalls.

Korean barbecue was a prominent player (mmm, meat on sticks) along with a whole range of diverse cuisines featuring the usual suspects (gozleme, where do you not pop up?!) and some not so typical. Along with Malaysian, Korean and Chinese snacks we had a Colombian arepa and some Senegalese lamb stew and fatayas, a type of fish pastry similar to a samosa.

Colourful Campsie, Vietnamese fruit carvings

As for the more standard fare, the char kway teow from the Albee’s Kitchen stand was tasty enough to require a return trip to Campsie to eat at their restaurant, with further enticement from Not Quite Nigella’s review (though I’m not sure about the Marmite chicken?!). Korean is definitely on the agenda too… next time, Campsie!

Chinese bbq restaurant doing a brisk trade in egg tarts and snacks

121BC and District Dining

On a mission to find new Italian wine bar 121BC we stumbled around Surry Hills’ Holt Street for what seemed like eternity. After a few misses and a quick enquiry at nearby Vini (121BC’s big sister bar and restaurant) we were on our way down the adjacent alleyway, meeting another lost couple enroute. Reason for all the confusion – it’s listed in some places as 4/50 Holt Street without the all important ‘enter via Gladstone Street’ (don’t enter 50 Holt Street itself or you’ll just be in the lobby of an office building!).

Finally inside 121BC, we were seated at the one long communal table. A blackboard list of Italian whites on the left and reds on the right was before us and the staff made some excellent recommendations. We loved the atmosphere, the unique and amazing wines, the customer service and the idea you can purchase a full bottle of your favourite at the adjacent wine shop. Small bar perfection!

Mondrian-esque map at District Dining’s entrance

Next, it was onto dinner at District Dining, the more casual offering from 2-hatted Assiette’s Warren Turnbull.

Devoured:
1 bottle of Spanish white (Albarino)
Scallops with artichoke, pancetta and prune
Kingfish with wasabi pannacotta, quinoa and ponzu
Roasted spatchcock, sweetcorn, succotash and bacon
Braised beef cheek, cauliflower, pedro ximenez and prunes
Dark chocolate brownie, macadamia brittle, white chocolate icecream
Mandarin brulee, cardamom and poached mandarin
2 macchiatos (using organic Allpress coffee)

The seafood entrees were both delicious, with the scallops beautifully cooked and the wasabi pannacotta the perfect accompaniment to the super fresh kingfish. The spatchcock had an amazing cajun-like seasoning which made the dish, and the beef cheeks were unbelievably tender (and our overall favourite dish of the night). The desserts weren’t of the to-die-for variety with the brownie a little low on the chocolate factor, but the brulee’s dynamic cardamom and mandarin flavour combo managed to compensate.

Verdict? District Dining was casually and comfortably cool, with friendly service and a moreish menu. I now feel compelled to return and try the quail eggs with tarragon mayo and, well, pretty much everything else we didn’t order!

121BC Cantina & Enoteca, 4/50 Holt St (enter via Gladstone St), Tel: 02 9699 1582, www.121bc.com.au


121 BC on Urbanspoon


District Dining, 17 Randle St, Surry Hills, Tel: 02 9211 7798, www.districtdining.com.au


District Dining on Urbanspoon

Art and tea at White Rabbit

Contemporary Chinese art…a teahouse…a converted former knitting factory…a cool backstreet Chippendale location…White Rabbit gallery ticks all the right boxes for a dose of modern Asia in downtown Sydney. It’s a family owned gallery featuring an extensive private collection of Chinese art created since the year 2000 – all for the public’s free viewing pleasure.

The gallery’s current exhibition, A Decade of the Rabbit, features colourful, innovative works by contemporary Chinese artists, from neon Chinese signage to a recreation of a typical doorway found in suburban Chinese cities woven entirely from thread. It’s colourful, intriguing, inspiring, thought provoking, nostalgic yet fresh.

Back on ground level, the birdcage adorned tea house features an extensive menu of loose leaf teas from whites, greens and oolongs to those flavoured with roses, lychees and goji berries. Labelled tins featuring samples of each tea leaf variety are on the centre of each table to smell.

Devoured:
Jin Xuan, a Taiwanese milk oolong with a distinct smooth and sweet flavour, and Yin Zhen (or Silver Needle), a delicate, premium white tea. Both were amazing but I preferred the milk oolong’s more unique taste.

White Rabbit, 30 Balfour Street, Chippendale NSW 2008, +61 (02) 8399 2867, open Thurs-Sun 10am-6pm

White Rabbit Teahouse on Urbanspoon

Goodbye, Vietnam!

It feels surreal to be saying goodbye but it’s my last day in Vietnam today! The bags are packed, the farewells have been said, and tomorrow morning we fly to Bangkok for one last Asian mini-break (ok, and shopping spree) before heading back to Sydney to live.

It’s been an amazing four and a half years living in Phnom Penh and then Saigon – full of the some of the biggest ups and downs I’ve ever felt but overall, a life changing experience. During that time I’ve travelled lots, had two kids and scored my dream job (Deputy Editor of a magazine!). I’ve made some amazing friends in both cities, eaten a ridiculous amount of great food and drunk copious amounts of good coffee. I’ve forgotten how to clean(!) and how to catch public transport – the adjustment to life back in the ‘real world’ may be a tough one! I’m really looking forward to fresh air, parks, empty sidewalks and comparatively empty roads, Sydney stuff like farmers markets and art galleries and concerts and events, catching up with old friends and rediscovering pretty much everything.

There are lots of things I’ll miss (mostly food and people and cheap stuff!) but lots of things I won’t (the traffic, the pollution, the noise – don’t get me started on the noise!). I think it’ll be a tumultuous time ahead re-establishing a life in Sydney, but hopefully it will feel like the right move. As for blogging – I’ve loved connecting with like-minded souls around the world and don’t want the virtual friendships to end! I’m not sure of the fate of A Girl in Asia just yet (I don’t want to say goodbye!) and I’ll definitely continue reading and commenting on all my favourite blogs. Please drop by now and then as I may post a link to a new Sydney-based blog once I’m on my feet and think up my next blogging move! Better go – there’s still a little more packing to do in our over-stuffed bags which somehow have to fit lots of Bangkok purchases too(!).

{Saigon Eats} Cuc Gach Quan

I have just been (for the second time in less than a week!) to one of the most stunning, inspiring, elegant, amazing restaurants, and it’s right in my neighbourhood! I can’t believe I’ve only been introduced to this place two weeks before I depart Saigon, so obviously, a few more visits are in order!

Cuc Gach Quan is a Vietnamese ‘country’ style restaurant, with its menu offering a nod to the way dishes were once prepared – without msg or ingredients affected by fertilisers. The tofu and the soy sauce are homemade, and the juices are natural and pure with no sugar added, but a little jug of honey is served on the side. The food is delicious (especially the lemongrass tofu and the pork in claypot) and the decor is amazing, with antique/distressed wood furniture, gorgeous blue and white crockery and drinks served in glass bottles with rolled up banana leaf stoppers. There’s a fish and turtle pond between the front room and the open kitchen at the back, and a steep staircase leading up to more gorgeous seating. The restaurant is architect owned and designed – and it shows!

I’m in love with this place, and I can’t wait to go back. For more about Cuc Gach Quan, see this piece in Travel + Leisure, or check out some of the feature articles on its website.

Cuc Gach Quan, 10 Dang Tat, Tan Dinh, District 1, Saigon, Tel: 38480144 or 01657101010


Images courtesy Cuc Gach Quan