Hanoi Eats: Bun Cha Dac Kim

If you’re ever in Hanoi and looking for somewhere local and authentic to eat, I highly recommend Bun Cha Dac Kim! Crammed, cramped and crazy, the small but multi-storied eatery packs in hungry hordes all there for one reason – their fantastic bun cha!

What is bun cha you’re wondering? Think a clear yet tasty soup, to which you add rice noodles, piles of fresh green herbs, succulent pieces of grilled pork and flavoursome pork mince patties, plus chilli, garlic and other condiments galore, should it not be a tasty enough concoction. Together, the flavours and textures are simply amazing. A side of spring rolls are served with the bun cha, with the casing around Dac Kim’s version akin to pastry – think an Aussie sausage roll…but better!

Bun Cha Dac Kim’s open air kitchen
For more on bun cha, here’s a gushy ode to the delicious dish I just came across: The Bun Cha Obsession. I can see why all the fuss – it really is that good!
Bun Cha Dac Kim, 1 Hang Manh Street, Old Quarter, Hanoi

Barfly: QD Bar & Lounge


I’m sorry, Qing, but I think I have a new favourite wine bar!
On a night that involved a raucous dinner at 3T (or Quan Nuong – the BBQ place above Temple Club) feasting on bbq-your-own beef with 5 spice, marinated squid, still kicking prawns, wild boar(!) with lemongrass and chilli and much much more, we also checked out new wine bar QD.
From a loud and local venue to one that’s stylish and serene, entering QD Bar & Lounge post-bbq fun provided something of a shock to our overseas visitors. And to us Saigon residents, first glance at QD’s interior suggested the stylish Saigon bar stakes have definitely been upped. There are floor-to-ceiling glass windows looking out onto Ton That Thiep’s trees, a display of backlit green glass winebottles behind the bar, velvet lounges, floorboards and moody lighting. Apparently the bar is owned by a famous Vietnamese pop star named Quang Dung.
In case you’re wondering about the prices – there are wines (from here, there and everywhere) by the glass from around 100,000 to 180,000 dong (that’s about US$6 to $10) and bottles from around 500,000 to 1,000,000 dong (about US$30 to $60). It’s definitely the kind of place you’d want to go on a Saigon date night (which gives me an idea for a future post….!).
*NB: Actually I still love Qing (red and white striped walled winey bolthole on Pasteur) – both bars offer distinctly different atmospheres with Qing cute, cosy and chatty; QD dark, mysterious and sophisticated…
QD Bar & Lounge, 138 Ton That Dam, D1, Saigon
Qing, 110 Pasteur, D1, Saigon

Cafe Crush (Hanoi): Sohot

Sohot’s dark, luxuriously decadent interior

Ice-cream sundaes featuring Fanny’s ice-cream
– unfortunate name but delicious all the same

Sohot is one of those places smack bang in the middle of touristville yet obscured enough from the street that only locals (and intrepid cafe seekers like moi) seem to know about, with nary a tourist in sight. It’s located right next to the cathedral on boutique-filled, could-be-in-Europe Nha Tho street – on the left hand side if facing the cathedral, down a narrow path, in a door and up some stairs.

The interior is gorgeous – decadent velvet lounges, patterned wallpapers and chandeliers give it a luxe Victorian theme. Head up one more level and the top floor is even more amazing than the first with its moody red walls. They serve the usual array of drinks (and then some – like ‘Italian’ style sodas), Vietnamese dishes and cafe fare, and my favourite – suitably decadent (and heat-busting) sundaes by local ice-cream brand Fanny’s. Try the one with Bailey’s but swap the vanilla ice-cream for coffee flavoured – delicious!

Sohot, 2 Nha Tho Street, Old Quarter, Hanoi

Cha Ca – my latest food obsession

Cha Ca at Cha Ca La Vong (Saigon)

Fragrant herbs to enhance the grilled fish – yum!

Cha Ca, if you haven’t had the pleasure of trying it, is a delicious Vietnamese fish dish originating from Hanoi. Grilled white fish, turmeric, spring onion and dill are the essential ingredients, with sides of vermicelli noodles, lime wedges and abundant fresh herbs (basil, mint etc.), crunchy peanuts and condiments with a chilli bent designed to be eaten with the fish. Combined, the flavours and textures are a sensation. There are a few places in Saigon specialising in Cha Ca – fortunately, the ones I know of are walking distance from my place (Cha Ca Hanoi and Cha Ca La Vong). The latter is my pick – the fish here is somehow more fragrant and tasty than Cha Ca Hanoi’s. I’m not sure if it’s related to the famous Cha Ca La Vong restaurant in Hanoi or a copycat using the famous name, but it’s fantastic either way!
Cha Ca La Vong, Thach Thi Tanh (just around the corner from Vo Thi Sau, opposite the park), D1, Saigon
Cha Ca Hanoi, Tran Nhat Duat, D1, Saigon

Cafe Crush: Plie (a.k.a May)



Another week, another Saigon cafe crush! This time, it’s cute and comfortable hideaway, Plie, which also goes by the name of May. Tucked down an alley off a non-descript D3 street, it’s definitely off the usual expat radar. Catering to a younger demographic evidenced by the cushion strewn second floor playing host to a cool Vietnamese crowd in their late teens, Plie has a fresh contemporary feel. Cushiony couches, wall decals (like black on white tree branches) and coffee tables constructed from old packing crates deck out the ground floor. Loud (and lousy) love tunes aside, it’s the perfect spot to relax with a hot chocolate (or cacao nong as it’s known in these parts!) and a good book.

Go for: the hideaway factor, great fruit shakes, comfortable seats and cute decor
Not for: the music (huge speaker stacks – in a cafe?! Welcome to Saigon…)
Plie, 120/4a Tran Quoc Thao, D3

Cafe crush: My local!


Saigon is crammed full of cafes in every shape and form – from the shiny and new chain variety to funky, quirky hideaways – but for an excellent cafe sua da I can’t go past my local coffee shop. A little home away from home for me, the cafe ’round the corner is of the variety typically found all over Vietnam. Rows of plastic seats akin to beach chairs line the pavement, all facing out to the street (just like Paris! Sort of….). Coffee is served on little foldout card tables, and is always accompanied by complimentary iced jasmine tea, which the owner continuously refills.

Not only is my local a source of great coffee, but a warm and welcoming place with friendly, chatty owners whose extended family is often around. Although I love my Illy and Lavazza (and my Trung Nguyen!) and seeking out cool little Saigon coffee spots, I’m really glad I have a regular, local haunt too. This might be one address I keep to myself!

Saigon Eats: Byblos

Warda has been carrying Saigon’s middle eastern food torch for a while now (ignoring the dodgy looking kebab vendors in Pham Ngu Lao) so new Lebanese restaurant Byblos is a refreshing arrival. I love Lebanese food (I lived around the corner from a Lebanese sweet shop in Sydney and miss it alot!) so happily I can now get my fix here.

So far I’ve tried Byblos’ chicken shwarma roll that was not only enormous but served with fries, garlic sauce and salad – almost too much for one person. At 75,000 dong (just over US$4) it was great value too. I definitely want to try more of the dishes and their shisha lounge next time. And of course, the sweets!

Image courtesy of Byblos

Everything tastes better that ends in ‘tini


Lately I’ve found that all the best drinks on Saigon’s menus are some variation of the martini. Favourites (so far) include:

Saketini@Xu
Xu’s Saketini is a Japanese-inspired take on the classic martini – mixing sake and vodka, with daikon as the olive’s savoury substitute.
Basil Martini@Amber Room
One of classy, upscale Amber Room’s signature drinks, the Basil Martini is highly fragrant and refreshing. A bit left of centre from the usual cocktail friendly herbs like mint, basil works with vodka suprisingly well!
Rose Martini@Warda
The Rose Martini is a delicious, middle eastern take on the martini – like Turkish Delight in a glass. I have a huge soft spot for all things rose flavoured, so this may be my favourite Saigon cocktail to date…
Other flavours I love in martinis are vanilla, lemongrass, lychee, chilli and kaffir lime – what about you?

Cafe crush: Puku, Hanoi

Peeling paint adds to Puku’s vibe

Satisfying stuff – a BLT, plus chicken and fried egg

A breakfast fave – eggs benedict

Puku brings a little touch of bohemia to one of the Old Quarter’s popular shopping strips. A bit of a hideaway (it’s accessed down a skinny, dingy alley and up a steep staircase) Puku has a faded charm and an arty/studenty/expat-y vibe. With its high ceiling, peeling paint, comfortable but scruffy furniture and a blackboard menu behind the counter, it’s a (much) grungier version of Saigon’s La Fenetre Soleil. The food is western cafe fare – mostly melts, sandwiches and breakfast standards.

Go for: the faded charm, a dose of comfort food when you’re all pho-ed out, a birds eye view of the charming street below, free wi-fi, delicious melts, a laidback atmosphere and the casual, breezy rooftop area
Not for: the coffee, which isn’t so great (inexcusible really when there’s such good coffee to be had in Vietnam!), the sometimes surly service
Puku, 60 Hang Trong Street, Old Quarter, Hanoi