Wandering Chippendale’s dark, desolate streets in search of Ester, we wondered, why aren’t there more restaurants in Chippendale? There are great cafes in the daytime (like Cafe Giulia and Brickfields), art galleries, bars (Freda’s and now Zigi’s Wine and Cheese – which were both frequented for wines pre-Ester!), but why aren’t there restaurants on every corner?! Chippendale will undoubtedly become a new food and drink hotspot come the completion of the ginormous, plant-wall covered Central Park development, but for now, Ester is a shining beacon of promise in a still slightly off the radar patch of inner-Sydney.

So, Ester – where to begin? The decor – minimalist with a 60s touch, the vibe – lively, unpretentious yet city sleek, the service – unobtrusive, friendly and just right, the food – out of this world. Part of the Vini/121BC group of restaurants, the head chef Mat Lindsay is ex-121BC and Billy Kwong, and is now apparently all about the wonders of the wood-fired oven.

We ate a ridiculous number of dishes, but here’s what you should order: the cured meats plate for melt in your mouth coppa, flavour packed nduja and spicy salami; the raw fish, brought to life with the contrast of crunchy, baked capers; the most ridiculously amazing lamb cooked in the wood-fired oven (think silken in texture), the almost show-stealing side of charred broccolini with chilli and crispy flaked almonds, and all of the icecreams (the vibrant, refreshing fennel, the strong, bitter chocolate and the buttery salted caramel semifreddo). There were some wonderful wines consumed (pinot noir and grenache) from the well-curated drinks menu, but mostly I was all-consumed with dying over the food. In a nutshell – you have to go to Ester!!!

Ester, 46-52 Meagher St, Chippendale, tel: 02 8068 8279

Sticky, spicy Bagan chicken

Bagan is an unassuming little eatery in Strathfield’s busy restaurant hub, decidedly daggy inside (think ageing Burma tourism posters and mocha coloured walls) but it’s the food that counts, right? Bagan’s extensive menu spans soups, salads, curries, noodles, rice dishes, meats and seafood, with dishes ranging from the heavily Chinese influenced, to Indian-inspired, to uniquely Burmese.

The only other Burmese place I’ve tried was a hole-in-the-wall eatery in Phnom Penh, run by Burmese people of Indian ethnicity, so it was all paratha breads and curries. Bagan’s menu is quite comprehensive though, so we pick the crispy, sticky ‘Bagan Chicken’, a bit 80s Chinese but with a delicious spicy kick balancing out the sweet honey coating, and tuck into Burmese fried rice, loaded with prawns and richly dark from soy.

A huge fan of all kinds of Asian salads, I eagerly await the Laphet Salad, a traditional Burmese salad of fermented tea leaves often served at traditional ceremonies, but for once am stumped. There is a really strong, fermented odour, almost fishy. The salad has a beautiful mix of textures but is overpowered by the pungent taste of the tea leaves. It kind of reminded me of eating something in Cambodia packed with prahok, everyone’s favourite fish paste. Next time, I’ll stick to green mango, or try the pennywort. The plus side is the ridiculously good prices at Bagan – the salad’s are mostly $5.80 each!

The standout dish was the Watt Thanut, or pork curry with green mango pickle. So rich, earthy and complex, with melt in your mouth slow cooked meat and a subtle hit of green mango pickle, mellowed in the cooking process. If you’re a fat fan, you'[ll love the little chunks of silken pork fat swimming in the curry (too soft and gelatinous for me though). The curry dishes at Bagan are $8.80 – they’re not huge servings, but enough for two people to share if you order several dishes. Bagan is a unique eatery with much to explore, from comforting staples to more unique flavours.

Bagan, Shop 4/41 The Boulevarde, Strathfield, open Tues-Sun 11am-10pm