{Saigon Eats} Dim sum at Shang Palace

Liz / / 6 Comments
Chicken & taro balls

I’m officially obsessed with going for dim sum at Shang Palace. My quest for the best dim sum in Saigon has taken me from the really crappy (the Chinese place behind Pacharan that’s currently closed for renovations – and hopefully a complete menu overhaul), to the bit better Windsor Hotel (naff 80s decor, ok but unremarkable dim sum) to the much better dim sum place across the road from the Saigon Zoo (the name escapes me). And then there’s Shang Palace! It definitely trumps them all – a chic, contemporary Chinese style space with a menu to die for.

The best bbq pork buns

Shanghai style crab dumplings

Favourite dim sum dishes – chicken and taro balls, barbecue pork buns, prawn dumplings, Shanghai style crab dumplings (soup-style dumplings with vinegar dipping sauce), and the rice rolls with sea scallops, prawns or barbecue pork. Most of the dim sum are from US$2-3 a basket, a price belying the surrounds and service. I love, love, love this place!

Bbq pork in rice rolls

Har cao (prawn dumplings) – all time favourite dim sum dish

Shang Palace, 17-19 Ly Tu Trong (@ Norfolk Mansions), District 1, Saigon, T: +84 8 3823 2221


{UPDATE} Thanks readers Kim and Jenny for reminding me the dim sum place near the zoo is called Ocean Palace, @ 2 Le Duan, D1

{Cafe Crush} AQ Coffee, Saigon

Liz / / 3 Comments

If you like your cafe sua da served up with a dash of colonial-era grandeur, AQ Coffee is the perfect place. A restored villa complete with high ceilings and requisite patterned tiles offers a charming alternative to Saigon’s newer mega-cafes with their floor-to-ceiling glass and vinyl lounge chairs.

Outside is a cool, curved bamboo structure emitting a cooling mist, while indoors and upstairs is the best place to relax and escape the relentless traffic noise. My only gripe? The olive coloured interior is a little grim – a coat of bright white paint would much better suit the surrounds!

Go for: a strong, smooth and sweet cafe sua da (iced coffee with milk) served with a cute ice box and tongs
Not for: sandwiches, brownies, that kind of thing – this is a young, trendy local haunt with a Vietnamese food menu to match

AQ Coffee, 32 Pham Ngoc Thach, District 3, Saigon

{Behind the Blog} Vivian from Lost in Translation

Liz / / 6 Comments
That’s Vivian on the left!

If you’re not already familiar with Lost in Translation (the blog, not the movie!), I highly suggest you take a little trip over. Canadian Vivian is living the good life in Japan, jaunting around cool cities and countryside, shopping at Muji (lucky!) and getting her karaoke on. Here’s what’s inspiring Vivian at the moment:

Where do you live/where are you now? 

I am currently living and working in Japan. I live on Shikoku island, a beautiful and traditional area located in the southern part of the country. It’s my first time living in the countryside, and I love being surrounded by mountains, beaches, and temples.

What are you currently…

…reading? 
These days, all my reading material is about learning Japanese! I’m still struggling with a few kana characters I constantly mix up, and I’m trying to memorize new Kanji on a daily basis. Japanese is a challenging yet fascinating language to learn, and knowing the basics definitely makes my life easier.

…listening to?
Thievery Corporation for lounging around at cafés. MGMT and Shout Out Louds for running. Charlotte Gainsbourg when I bake. Handsome Furs when I miss Montreal. Neutral Milk Hotel for long train rides. Sonic Youth… just all the time.

…watching?
I still watch and re-watch every single episode of Friends. It’s such a comforting series, and it makes me feel better when I get lonely. In fact, I cannot fall asleep without an episode in the background.

…cooking?
I’m actually baking a lot, and getting pretty creative in my little toaster oven: vanilla cupcakes, banana muffins, scones and brownies.

…eating?
Cold udon noodles! Udon is famous in my prefecture, and it’s very filling, cheap, and refreshing on hot summer days. I love the lemon slice and green onion toppings.

…drinking?
Iced Royal milk tea. I got addicted to milk tea upon my arrival in Japan. It’s very popular here, although it’s basically just tea mixed with milk, with a hint of cinnamon.

…wearing?
Floral mini skirt and a simple tank. Right now I’m loving florals and stripes paired together.

…planning?
A weekend of fun in Osaka. Osaka is pretty close to me, and my friends and I frequently hop on the bus for a much needed escape… a few days filled with shopping, nightlife and great foods.

…obsessed with? 
Sofia Coppola. I just saw the trailer for her latest film “Somewhere”, and I cannot wait to see it. And as always, her style, sophistication and creativity never cease to amaze me and inspire me to do more.

Favourite cuisines?
As much as I love Japanese food, I would have to say Mexican cuisine is my favourite. It’s also the most difficult to find in Japan, so every time I go to the import food store I make sure to stock up on spices to cook it at home. I am a bit embarrassed to admit that I will travel as far as Osaka for a Mexican meal!

Favourite travel destinations?
Lately I’ve been focusing on exploring all of Japan, and it’s been so exciting. I love the traditional places like Kyoto and Nara, full of history and temples. Tokyo and Osaka are great for getting lost in translation. I fell in love with Hiroshima, so sad yet wonderful and peaceful. Fukuoka is a beautiful coastal city, and I enjoy all of Shikoku for its wild and rugged natural beauty.

Next trip planned?
Korea this summer. I actually really miss living in Seoul, as it was such an exciting, big metropolis, and I miss my friends dearly. It will be lovely to revisit my old stomping grounds, and catch up with friends.

If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
Living in Tokyo is still one of my dreams. I think it would be amazing to experience living in one of the biggest cities in the world, and Tokyo is pretty crazy and hectic, yet livable. It would be some kind of achievement for me!

Who or what inspires you?
Anyone who pursue their dreams. Many people tell me about how lucky I am to be able to live abroad and such. I don’t think it’s luck at all – it’s a choice I made. I admire people who make things happen, even though it’s on a small scale.

3 of your must-read blogs?
Sending Postcards – Alex and Mina’s around-the-world travel diaries, filled with fantastic pictures.
A Girl in Asia – Makes me dream about visiting Vietnam, and I love the pictures of beautiful little cafés. [AGIA: I should have specified ‘except mine!’ but thank you!]
Style Scrapbook – I think Andy is gorgeous and stylish, and everything she wears is delightful and inspires me so much.

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I hope you enjoyed this little window into Vivian’s world as much as I did!

{Bangkok} A weekend of art and eats

Liz / / 7 Comments
A welcome diversion from retail therapy!

Weekends in Bangkok are without a doubt one of my favourite parts of living in Asia. I can no longer count how many times I’ve been, but I never, ever get tired of it. There’s always something new to see, and so many old favourites I love to revisit every time (hello, Chatuchak Market!).

Our last stay was during the calm before the red shirt brigade storm, and despite the fact Siam and most of its mega malls were barricaded off, there were still more than enough places to go, things to do and delicious eats to find.

Soi Arab
After OD-ing on pad kee mao and larb gai, we decided to ditch our Thai staples in favour of feasting in Soi Arab – a little patch of the Middle East in the seedy part of Sukhumvit. The crowded lane houses eateries ranging from Iranian to Omani to Egyptian, some with outdoor areas where you can indulge in a shisha pipe or two. There are shops selling Moroccan tea sets, exotic perfumed oils and prized (and pricey) agarwood. White robed, bearded men from faraway lands jostle for space on the bustling strip, with barely a Thai or farang (of the western variety) in sight. We ate at Shahrazah, an old school, mixed Middle Eastern restaurant open since 1983 (with the decor to prove it), which the NY Times rates in this piece on the area. Mainstays like succulent lamb, charcoal grilled chicken, hummous, tabouli and pickled vegetables were happily devoured – a delicious diversion from the Bangkok beaten path.

Shahrazah, Sukhumvit Soi 3/1 (between Sois 3 & 5), North Nana

Chatuchak Weekend Market
What would a Bangkok weekend be without getting lost in the maze of stalls forming the world’s largest outdoor market?! Probably a saner one – but I can never get enough of Chatuchak and its mix of tiny, unique boutiques mixed with everything else under the sun. As it was the middle of the hot season it was a short but sweet foray into the labyrinth of shopping temptation this time – I didn’t even buy much – but we did stop at the cutest cafe to refuel on fruitshakes. Despite its bolthole size and roadside locale, the cafe’s tiny wooden crate tables, fresh flowers, chandelier and mirror-backed counter formed a funky little spot of the kind Thai’s create so well.

Chatuchak Weekend Market, @ Mo Chit skytrain stop

TCDC (Thailand Creative Design Centre)
For a dose of design, we stopped at TCDC on the 6th floor of Emporium shopping mall (post obligatory Kinokuniya and Boots stock-ups). Its rotating exhibitions are always worth checking out, and this time was no exception. A design retrospective (‘What is Design’ – on til the end of November) showcasing a ‘best of’ design from around the world was on, with corners devoted to Italy (the Vespa! Prada shoes!), Sweden, Japan and more.

Alessi, Olivetti & more – Italian design on display

There’s also a cool shop with great notebooks, leathergoods, homewares and books, Kiosk cafe and a design library on the same floor – you have to take your passport to enter the library though (note to self – bring it next time!).

The Shop @ TCDC

TCDC, Level 6, Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit 24, @ Phrom Phong skytrain stop

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre
Next on our radar was the relatively new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre. Located right near MBK shopping mall, it’s an impressive ode to contemporary art in cooler by the day Bangkok, even if its faux-Guggenheim interior looks veeeery familiar!

We checked out a photography exhibition with images spanning 25 years in the life of Thai magazine, Sarakadee, and a colourful collection of paintings by a young Phuket-based girl (which I loved!). Gallery space aside, there are some really funky and unique cafes on the premises. Next time we’re in the city there’s an ‘Icons of French Design’ exhibition on, so a return trip is imminent!

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opp. MBK shopping mall @ National Stadium skytrain stop
Open 10am-9pm, closed Mondays, free admission

Ohana Cafe

Always on the lookout for cafes to crush on, I read about Ohana and just knew I’d love it. Down a soi beside Emporium, it’s in a flashy expat/rich Thai neighbourhood where people live in luxury condos and drive BMWs, so the cafe’s clientele was mostly well heeled Japanese and stylish Thais.

A veritable oasis in a world of Asian eats, Ohana serves up western cafe fare of the most comforting kind, with excellent pastas, a delectable brunch menu, and a molten centre chocolate cake. Travel, design and food books are there for the browsing, and there are cool mid-century style wooden chairs plus an indoor tree. Love!

Ohana Cafe, 50/4 Sukhumvit Soi 24, closest skytrain stop – Phrom Phong

{Saigon} Highs // Lows

Liz / / 4 Comments

Saigon // Highs

  • Discovering there’s now a Turkish place – Pasha – on Dong Du Street (next to Al Fresco) with Turkish breads and pizzas
  • SATC2 screening in Saigon from this weekend – the reviews are lame and my expectations are low(!) but it sounds just the ticket for some girly escapism
  • Our almost two year old deciding the local banana seller is called ‘Lady Narnies round the corner’ and the woman who runs our neighbourhood general store is ‘Dog and Cat Lady’ (hygienic, I know)
  • Free dinner when our delivery was late – Saigon customer service never fails to surprise me
  • My lovely (and hilarious) fellow mums and Saigon support network – even if I have to trek out to D7 all the time, it’s worth it!
  • The cafe at L’Usine opening – delicious coffee, simple but tasty sandwiches, communal table, inspirational surrounds and onsite retail temptation

Saigon // Lows

  • Waiting, waiting, waiting for baby no. 2 – we have 5 and a half weeks til we leave for Bangkok for an extended stay, but time seems to be standing still as any pregnant people in limbo land will identify with (though on a happy note – am glad Bangkok seems to be back to normal)
  • Food poisoning from a new Mexican place in D1 that I really, really wanted to love – shattered, as Mexican is one of my favourite cuisines and one of the rarest to find here
  • Unwelcome visitors (weevils in the rice, cockroaches in the bathroom and ants anywhere there’s food)
  • The eternal hunt for sugar free yoghurt – it does exist here, and the one we buy is actually by Vinamilk (a local brand), but everywhere runs out all the time so we can hardly ever find it. I think it’s time to finally start making our own!

{Cafe Crush} Joma Bakery Cafe, Luang Prabang

Liz / / 1 Comment

Vying for the title of my favourite Luang Prabang cafe with Le Banneton is the gorgeous Joma – lone frontier of air-conditioned comfort and stockist of a ridiculously good array of baked goods. Here, we scoffed everything from pizza to oatmeal cookies to sweet and savoury scones (some using locally grown mulberries), washed down with iced coffees and lime and mint drinks. Fortunately for Vietnam dwellers, Joma has ventured across the border and opened up shop in Hanoi, and Saigon is apparently next!

Go for: heat relief and sweet treats – particularly snowball biscuits, if you’re missing them from Phnom Penh’s The Shop (like I am!)
Not for: a peaceful refuge – this place is justifiably packed

Joma Bakery Cafe, Chao Fa Ngum Rd (main street), near Post Office (also in Vientiane and Hanoi)

{Luang Prabang Eats} Tamarind

Liz / / 7 Comments

Favourite meal in Luang Prabang? By a landslide, a Lao lunch at Tamarind – an unassuming looking restaurant, cooking school and purveyor of Lao ingredients run by an Australian/Lao couple. The emphasis here is on authentic Lao food prepared with the freshest local produce, minus the more Thai-centric coconut and curry dishes that are sometimes mistaken for being Lao (read more on Lao cuisine here).

We tried:

– The Lao dipping platter with khai pene in lieu of bread or chips – the dips provided a kaleidoscope of colour and Lao flavour, and included smoky eggplant, a hot chilli paste mixed with buffalo skin, a fresh tomato salsa and a coriander/garlic blend

– Stuffed lemongrass (oua si khai) – lemongrass stalks slitted and stuffed with a mixture of chicken, kaffir lime and coriander, then roasted, served with obligatory sticky rice

– Bamboo shoot soup (gaeng nor mai) – young bamboo shoots and a mountain of local vegetables in a rich, hearty, earthy, green soup (vitamin overload!)

– A namesake tamarind juice and a ginger/lemongrass juice – perfect antidotes to the heat and some of my all time favourite flavours

Every sip, bite and taste was amazing, with the fragrant chicken in lemongrass the overall winner. Am already regretting there wasn’t enough time to sample more of the menu or take a cooking class. Note to the travel gods: there’d better be a next time!

P.S. Total bill – in case you’re wondering – 109,000 Lao kip, just over US$13!

Tamarind, opp. Wat Nong, Luang Prabang, Laos

{Shoptalk} Luang Prabang finds

Liz / / 3 Comments

What: Embroidered cooking apron
Where: Textile market, Sisavangvong Rd
Price: 25,000 kip/US$3

What: Lao Mountain Coffee (organic – grown in Laos’ Bolavan Plateau region) and Lao honey
Where: Kopnoi, Ban Aphay, nr. L’Etranger Books and Tea
Price: Coffee – 70,000 kip/US$8.75; Honey – 30,000 kip/US$3.75

What: Black and brown scarf, handwoven by Phuthai people using naturally dyed organic cotton
Where: Laha, 165 Pakharm Village, Sisavangvong Rd
Price: US$15

What: Blue and white cotton scarf, handwoven
Where: Ock Pop Tok (Lao for East meets West), Sakkarine Rd
Price: US$10

And some things for our daughter and baby on the way…

What: Embroidered reversible hat (above) and red bonnet (below) for impending new arrival, both made by Akha people
Where: Traditional Arts & Ethnology Centre, base of Mt Phousi, behind Dara Market
Price: White hat – 60,000 kip/US$7.50; Red bonnet – 40,000 kip/US$5

What: Cotton/batik wraparound top
Where: Night market, Sisavangvong Rd

Price: 20,000 kip/US$2.50

What: Akha hilltribe doll
Where: Kopnoi (see details above)
Price: 80,000 kip/US$10
(NB: All US prices approximate)

Tripbase charity project – free travel ebooks

Liz / / 4 Comments

The travel secrets I contributed to Tripbase’s ebook project are now online! The travel company has just launched their free ebook series, consisting of 7 different downloadable books featuring tips and tidbits from a whole bunch of travel bloggers from around the world.

My Cambodia tip on handmade, homemade shopping can be found in the Worldwide book, and my tips on Kampot pepper and alcohol shopping are in the Food themed book. The best part of all – Tripbase has promised to donate $1 to charity:water for every person that downloads an ebook (see my blog’s sidebar for a little tally of how much my readers have helped donate). Fun project, Tripbase!