Weekend wanderings: Rosebery + Zetland

Coveting all the kids things at Koskela

Coveting all the kids things at Koskela

Our latest weekend wander was around Sydney’s post-industrial (and still a bit industrial) inner southeast. Rosebery and Zetland (just south of Redfern) are home to some fantastic finds, from off the radar factory outlet stores to cool cafes and furniture designers. In a matter of metres you can shop for discounted Zimmermann clothes, then lunch at the latest outpost of Newtown’s famed Black Star Pastry (everything here is good, but we tried and loved the roast pork banh mi and the brownies – heavenly!).

Rosebery’s Black Star Pastry – bakery heaven

Rosebery’s Black Star Pastry – bakery heaven

There’s more deliciousness on offer in Koskela’s inhouse cafe, Kitchen by Mike, in a huge warehouse conversion right next to Black Star. Koskela itself features an amazing edit of homewares, furniture, books and textiles by talented Australian designers, plus rotating art exhibits. Right now the colourful works of Melbourne artist Miranda Skoczek are brightening Koskela’s immense space (showing ’til 25 May – go!).

Miranda Skoczek’s vibrant paintings at Koskela

Miranda Skoczek’s vibrant paintings at Koskela

There’s also much to love and covet in the kids’ corner at Koskela, from the old school lockers to the wooden toys and colourful cushions. There’s a well-curated selection of picture books, featuring most of the CBCA 2014 shortlist and lots of crafty kid wares.

Koskela’s picture book edit

Koskela’s picture book edit

Venturing to next-door suburb Zetland, we also visited small contemporary art gallery Sullivan + Strumpf to see an exhibition by Japanese artist Hiromi Tango featuring installations bursting with colour – a 3D, abstract reflection of the inner self. It’s also on for a few more weeks and there’s an interesting group exhibition on the second level too, which we lost ourselves in for a while.

One of Hiromi Tango’s captivatingly colourful installations

One of Hiromi Tango’s captivatingly colourful installations

This is but the tip of the Rosebery/Zetland iceberg – definitely an area of Sydney worth unearthing for food, coffee, art and shopping finds, design inspiration and repeat pastry-fests.

Where to wander:

Black Star Pastry: 85-113 Dunning Ave (cnr. Hayes Rd), Rosebery
Koskela/Kitchen by Mike: 1/85 Dunning Ave, Rosebery
Sullivan + Strumpf: 799 Elizabeth St, Zetland
Zimmermann Outlet: 2E Hayes Rd, Rosebery

Singapore Fling: Little Arabia

The mosque by day…

And by night – when the streets took on an Arabian fairytale quality
One of the coolest neighbourhoods we visited in Singapore was Little Arabia. I think I loved it so much as it was something a little more unique, having visited many a Chinatown and several Indian neighbourhoods (and India!) before. With a huge mosque as its focal point, the area (known as ‘Kampong Glam’) had rows of streets lined with shophouses, with evocative street names like Kandahar, Muscat and Baghdad.
Similar to Singapore’s Chinatown, some streets seemed a little more ‘local’, like those lined with fabric stores, while others had a bit more of a contrived, touristy feel with ubiquitous souvenirs. Mostly though, the area was charming, particularly as the sun went down, the mosque was lit up, and we dined on delicious Muslim fare (at Sultan’s Cafe Corner) outdoors under palm trees and twinkling lights.
Delicious chicken murtabak

A highlight of the area was hip Haji Lane – aome to cute and highly unique clothing stores, Middle Eastern eateries, pokey stairways leading up to treasure troves of vintage goods, and pavements lined with mats and shisha pipes.

 

The lane seemed to attract photographers, black-clad arty looking guys, and even teens dressed like Harajuku girls – this was a Singapore a world away from its often conservative image.

The trip definitely opened my eyes to a side of Singapore some people don’t realise is there – one that’s not all about endless shopping malls and skyscrapers, but instead, unique and colourful neighbourhoods with pockets of quirky, cool places, like the Arab Quarter’s Haji Lane and Ann Siang Road in Chinatown. Overall – a great place for a weekend or mini-break!

Singapore Fling: Chinatown



During our Singapore long weekend we not only stayed in Chinatown but spent a bit of time exploring its colourful streets, checking out the shops, and of course, sampling the food. The area seemed to consist of several parts – the touristy part hawking souvenirs seen all over Asia (and every Chinatown around the world), the local area with great kitchenware shops and bustling restaurants, and the boutiquey area around and including Ann Siang Road.


Ann Siang Road was loaded with character – from Chinese clan houses to ornate tiles on the exterior of the buildings, to its mix of fashion boutiques and quirkier shops.

One of my favourite shops on Ann Siang Road was Asylum (at no. 22), selling magazines, travel books, lomo cameras and unique homewares. The other was a fantastic bookshop called Books Actually (at no. 5). Along with a great selection of books, the shop housed retro accessories, some cool photography (more lomo action) and there was even a little ‘cat viewing gallery’ – glass windows looking out to a teeny courtyard home to one very pampered looking cat.

 

We ate dinner at a nearby food centre (like a hawker centre – but a small version) called Tion Shian Eating House. The seafood with crispy noodles we tried was delicious yet the sauce quickly turned the noodles from crispy to soupy. The highlight was a plate of chicken wings accompanied by a red hot chilli dipping sauce and a small lime to suck afterwards if the heat got too much (according to the vendor). The wings were some of the best I’d ever tasted – crispy on the outside with tender meat – and all for the sum of a few dollars.

An ultimate day in Phnom Penh

Psar Orussei Phnom Penh

One of my favourite kinds of articles to read in travel magazines is of the ‘my perfect day in [fabulous city]’ variety, providing inspiration on the best places to see, shop, eat and drink in a certain place, so I thought I’d share some Phnom Penh ideas before I leave for sunny Saigon.

Here’s what you could do for the ultimate Phnom Penh day (albeit a very girly one). Let’s also pretend that just for one day there’s no rubbish or beggars on the streets, lecherous sexpats lurking around or aggressive Lexus drivers careening down the wrong side of Norodom Boulevard at 100 kilometres an hour – this is make believe remember!

08:00

Rise and shine after an uninterrupted 10 hour sleep. No, make it 12.

08:30

Head to buzzing cafe The Shop on boutique lined Street 240, with the best service staff in town and the best chocolate croissants – ever. Order two chocolate croissants and a carrot beetroot ginger juice. Eye off their insanely tempting dessert counter but practice some self-restraint – there’ll be plenty of time for sweet treats later on.

09:00

While on Street 240 check out the shops. Hunt for quirky jewellery finds at Water Lily, and peruse the clothes at Bliss, Jasmine and Song in search of something inspiring.

09:45

Now duck around to Sihanouk Boulevard to shoe store VNC to find some new footwear to go with the Street 240 purchases. If in luck, there’ll be one of their ‘up to 70% off’ sales on and they magically won’t have sold out of your size in the style you like.

10:15

The retail therapy is only just beginning. Now it’s time to visit Ambre, an amazing clothing store featuring the designs of Romyda Keth, Cambodia’s most successful fashion designer. Visit each of the colour themed rooms in the spacious colonial house before trying on some of the creations. Do not leave without a purchase!

11:00

By now you’ll be in need of a caffeine hit and some air-con, so relax at the riverfront’s Cafe Fresco with a strong coffee and the day’s newspapers to catch up on what’s going on.

11:30

Time for a bit more shopping. See if there are any nice silk bags in Orange River a few doors down, then duck back around the corner to Kravan House to stock up on silk scarves. Around the corner on Sothearos, pick up some secondhand reading material at Bohr’s Books (especially the US$3 photocopied ones) and check out the silver shops for chunky rings, cuffs and earrings.

12:15

Finally, it’s lunchtime. Make your way to Metro for some Asian tapas and cool drinks in funky, glass enclosed surrounds. How about the Metro Fries, wok fried squid and chilli salt chicken wings, with a lychee and mint shake? Yum! Use the free wi-fi to catch up on emails, news, Facebook shenanigans and of course, blog subscriptions!

14:00

After all that shopping in ‘proper’ shops it’s time to get down and dirty at the Russian Market. Jostle the crowds in the narrow aisles for ts and singlets fresh from Phnom Penh’s garment factories. Some might call these items ‘fallen off the back of a truck’. Pick up some latest release pirated DVDs and CDs, and a few more pieces of silver jewellery. Take some fabric to one of the many tailors to get some clothes copied at bargain prices (my favourite is Asia Tailors, run by a friendly couple). And check out the cute bits and pieces (funky toys, bags, wallets and more) at Too-it Too-it, run by the Friends streetkid charity.

15:30

Time for more sustenance. Head back to Street 240 to Chocolate by The Shop, set in a charming French colonial building. Belgian chocolate is for sale here in various guises, from flavoured chocolates (I recently discovered their amazing Kampot pepper variety), to truffles, pralines, brownies, ice-creams and drinks. Select some different chocolates, order a coffee (or a hot chocolate – why not go crazy) and take a seat for a breather and a chocolatey feast.

16:00

Venture a few doors down to Spa Bliss for a one hour body massage (it’s called Bliss for a good reason) – an antidote to all that traipsing, bargaining and jaunting all over town.

17:00

Now go home to have a much needed shower and get ready for a night out. Wear something from the day’s shopping bounty, perhaps a colourful little Ambre number with some Water Lily accessories or silver finds from the market.

19:00

Meet some friends at Chow for happy hour cocktails. Head up to the rooftop terrace for river views and a tropical resort feel.

20:00

Now it’s onto dinner at chic La Residence, one of the city’s newer dining options with a Japanese, Michelin star restaurant trained chef at the helm. Indulge in gourmet modern French cuisine and a fine bottle of wine (or two).

22:00

One could stay out for more drinking, dancing, or even a spot of karaoke or a 6am trip to Naga Casino (don’t ask!), but for my ultimate day this would be enough. Time to go home to bed for a long, well-deserved sleep.

The end!

Shoptalk: Ipa-Nima

A purchase from colourful bag boutique Ipa-Nima is to Saigon as an Ambre dress purchase is to Phnom Penh – that is, a must-do for any Asia-bound (or dwelling) girl! Ipa-Nima’s unique creations, designed by a Hong Kong lawyer turned fashionista are mostly boho-vintage with ethnic influences. Their bags feature lots of embellishment and colour and craziness rather than a sleek or minimal look –

While in Saigon recently, I visited Ipa-Nima’s three-storey bag parlour on Rue Pasteur and left toting this much embellished green leather satchel – a perfect day bag and large enough for Z’s paraphernalia (without looking like a naff baby bag).

Chocolate – Cambodge style

One of the best examples of ‘east-west’ fusion I’ve experienced in a long time was some Kampot pepper chocolate I recently tried from Street 240’s Chocolate by The Shop.

The pepper originates from Cambodia’s Kampot province, and back in colonial times was highly prized by the French, who even used it in restaurants back in Paris. Its production fell by the wayside during the Khmer Rouge era but it’s now undergoing a renaissance as Cambodians, expats and tourists alike re-discover its highly fragrant and delicious taste (it really is better than ‘ordinary’ pepper!).

The geniuses at Chocolate by The Shop have mixed crushed Kampot peppercorns with quality Belgian chocolate to create a taste sensation with serious bite. Fellow chocoholics and pepper fiends should definitely give it a try!

Shoptalk: Kravan House

My latest purchase from Kravan House – a king size silk bedspread

 

Silk shops can be found on almost every corner in Phnom Penh with most carrying similar wares, some slightly more tasteful than others. A small silk shop called Kraven House manages to combine taste with reasonable prices (and it’s also run by an NGO as an added bonus).

It stocks a mixture of ubiquitous silk bags and scarves with some more unique items. I particularly covet their coin purses and jewellery rolls with a funky Indian-style print and beaded embroidery. They also stock stripey cotton scarves which are well worth checking out.

The shop is so small and unassuming that I hardly even remember its name and mostly just refer to it as ‘Favourite Shop’. It also seems to be a favourite with buyers for western retailers. A friend has seen people from shops like Cambodia House in Sydney’s Woollahra stocking up on wholesale orders here, which they can then make quite the profit on in a world where silk and anything with a ‘Made in Cambodia’ tag is a bit more precious and rare.

Kravan House, 13 Street 178, Phnom Penh