The best of Kai Bae Beach, Koh Chang

Idyllic Kai Bae Beach, Koh Chang

Idyllic Kai Bae Beach, Koh Chang

 

Despite the presence of some newer resorts and hotels, there is still a rawness to Koh Chang. It is Thailand’s second largest island but far from its busiest, with no high rise development and a jungle covered interior. The thatched bungalows like the type we stayed in here ten years ago still remain, though some have had a bit of a makeover and a price hike. There are lots of mid-range places to stay, and the atmosphere is decidedly chilled, even at the busiest beach, White Sands. Roaming vendors on the beach are few and far between, and you can seek out nightlife if you want it, or easily avoid it.

Behind Kai Bae

Kai Bae’s string of eateries and shops retains a laidback, backpackery vibe (minus the sleaze)

We recently spent a week on Kai Bae Beach, an idyllic spot with lots of families with small kids around (perfect for us!). The beach is lined with palm trees and rope swings, and a scattering of low-key resorts. Behind the beach lies an eclectic mix of backpacker bars, cafes, restaurants, stalls selling flowy beach dresses and ubiquitous massage places. After much exploration on our recent Koh Chang escape, here are my picks of the best of Kai Bae Beach:

Food + Drink

Most of the places to eat and drink are located on the road behind the beach. In amongst the usual mix of Thai and Western offerings we found some real gems. Must-eats at Kai Bae include:

Barrio Bonito

Barrio Bonito – Kai Bae’s must-eat Mexican

+ Barrio Bonito, the most authentic Mexican I’ve ever had in Asia (with all Latino staff you know you’re onto something). Head here for delicious tostadas, tacos and the best margaritas.

+ Took Ka Ta Kai Moon was the best local Thai place we tried. There are chickens cooking over charcoal out the front, and an open air kitchen where women are busy pounding mortar and pestles and making Thai salads. Highly recommended is their amazing som tam, Thai style BBQ chicken and sticky rice, washed down with coconuts.

Took Ka Ta Tai Moon

Our favourite local eatery for Thai salads and chicken

Chicken ans Som Tam

Simple yet delicious chicken, sticky rice and som tam at Took Ka Ta Kai Moon

+ Riddim Shack, where we had jerk chicken and Carribbean-style dirty rice – a unique take on local ingredients. British owner David mans this little Reggae Bar tucked down ‘Walking Street’ – a name usually assigned to girly bar strips in Thailand, though Kai Bae’s version was low key (and decidedly un-girly). The beach was unseasonably quiet given the protests taking place in Bangkok, so we had to pre-order the food here the day before (and it was well worth doing so!).

Coffee on Koh Chang

Coffee on Koh Chang – a surprising number of options!

For coffee, we tried all the main places on Kai Bae, from the little Italian Aperol bar and cafe, to the fairtrade, organic Northern Thai coffee shop, but the best we tried was from Mochaccino. The other cafe worth seeking out at Kai Bae is Papa’s Deli, a Euro bakery/deli with amazing chocolate croissants and charcuterie, should you need a break from all things Thai.

Things to do

Kai Bae is more for relaxing and swimming than strenuous activity, but we did hire kayaks from a stand on the beach for 100 baht/hour (that’s about $3!). Our kayak fit two adults and two children, and it was fun traversing most of the beach, keeping an eagle eye out for any good places to eat along the way.

Kayaking

Kayak rentals – $3 an hour

Every afternoon, two baby elephants were led by their handlers into the water at the northern end of the beach. They were trained to spray water on anyone who had a ride, and stand up on their hind legs. I wasn’t entirely sure about the ethics of riding baby elephants trained to perform timely tricks for tourists, but their cuteness was undeniable.

Baby Elephant Bathing

Each afternoon baby elephants would visit the beach

We ventured to several other beaches on the songthaews that drive up and down the main road (you flag them down and jump in, and the fare for four of us ranged from 50 baht for a short distance to 100 baht to another beach). White Sands is much more developed than the others, yet still manages to retain that backpackery charm with ramshackle restaurants on stilts, bungalows and cheap massage huts mixed with the more upscale resorts.

Lonely Beach

Lonely Beach is still quite undeveloped

Lonely Beach is quiet with large swathes of beachfront land entirely undeveloped – which is surprising in a place like Thailand. It’s still the most chilled out, but no longer the domain of 20-something backpackers, with more middle-aged and older Europeans and Russians in the mix.

Massage huts are everywhere you look on Koh Chang (with most signposted in English and Russian) – this is another huge difference from when I first visited in ’03, when they were few and far between. The going rate for a Thai massage is 250 baht/hour (around $7) to about 400 baht/hour for different variations of massages from oil to aloe vera. The best massage I had was at Kai Bae’s ‘The Bodiwork’ on the main road behind the beach, which offered a more a spa-like atmosphere and professional experience. I felt like I was walking on air after a visit, and while the prices are slightly more than at the beach huts, it’s definitely worth it.

I loved our stay at Kai Bae and felt it was the right beach ‘fit’ for us – a comfortable middle ground of not too busy, not too crowded, but not too quiet or isolated either. For more info on Koh Chang and what each beach offers, I am Koh Chang offers a no holds barred look at the island, and there’s also the super informative Koh Chang Guide.

Destination Mudgee

Botobolar

Botobolar – Australia’s oldest organic vineyards

Botobolar

Botobolar

Logan Wines

Stunning views from Logan Wines

Logan Wines

Tasting at Logan Wines

Over the Christmas break we headed to Mudgee for a few days, figuring the coast in either direction from Sydney would be too crowded. Heading west of the city over the Blue Mountains and beyond, we reached Mudgee and discovered few other tourists around – I’m sure most were at the beach! It meant the wineries were blissfully uncrowded (some empty), the hotel deals abundant, and the vibe very relaxed. The downsides were that a few eateries were closed, and the weather was super hot. Regardless, it was a great three day stay, filled with much eating and drinking, beautiful views and animal spotting for the kids. After experiencing much of what Mudgee has to offer, here’s an edit of the must-dos:

The Wineries

Wineries are Mudgee’s main drawcard, and there are so, so many to visit. Some are clustered together on the main road past the racecourse, but many are sprawled out on the outskirts of town in every direction, with several worth seeking out. Our favourites were:

+ Logan Wines for stunning views from a glass box perched high above the vineyards.

+ Robert Stein for the beautiful setting, the best Shiraz and the most amazing restaurant of our trip, the few months old Pipeclay Pumphouse.

+ Short Sheep Micro-winery for the personal touch provided by the owner couple proud to show us around and explain their wine-making process, as well as the cute breed of short sheep you can feed (especially fun if you have kids in tow).

+ Botobolar for beautiful wine (including some that are preservative-free) at Mudgee’s oldest organic vineyard. We particularly liked this winery’s reds, after first discovering them at Newtown’s Bloodwood.

+ Lowe Wines for the family-friendly feel, with beautifully organised grounds ripe for exploration, complete with farm animals and fruit plantations (the wine was great too!).

Pipeclay Pumphouse

Salmon carpaccio at Pipeclay Pumphouse

 fig mille feuille

Caramelised fig mille feuille with honey marshmallow at Pipeclay Pumphouse

Food + Drink

Like anywhere, there were hits and misses. In a few days we managed to sample quite a lot of Mudgee’s eateries, from cafes to pubs to winery restaurants. We were there just after New Year so a few places that looked and sounded great were closed, like Roth’s Wine Bar, though there were still plenty of places open to choose from. Here’s our pick of the bunch:

Favourite café:

Market Street Café was our favourite breakfast/brunch venue, with nearly everything on the menu sourced in and around Mudgee, from the preserves to the locally raised meat. The ingredients here are of the highest quality and they serve great coffee by Bill’s Beans from nearby Orange.

Pipeclay Pumphouse

Pipeclay Pumphouse at Robert Stein

Entering Pipeclay Pumphouse

Entering Pipeclay Pumphouse

Favourite restaurant:

The afore-mentioned Pipeclay Pumphouse at Robert Stein is the new Mudgee hotspot and by far our favourite experience of the trip. If you venture to Mudgee you MUST eat here! The setting is amazing (another glass box-like structure making the most of the stunning views) perched over a dam, backed by vineyards, backed by rolling green hills. The food is beautifully executed fine dining, with a 3 course menu at $60 and a seven course degustation at $85. It has it all, from genuine, professional service, beautiful Stein’s wines, a stunning setting and decadent, delicious food.

Favourite beer:

There are so, so many pubs in Mudgee, what seems a disproportionate amount for a small town(!), but the best place for beer has to be the Mudgee Brewing Company. The barn-like microbrewery and restaurant is in the middle of town and features a simple menu of typical Oz bar food and live music, along with an extensive array of beers brewed on site. The IPA was a standout, and the Razz Ale my overall pick, a raspberry-infused brew which is not at all sweet or sickly, just oddly refreshing.

The family factor

We travelled to Mudgee with our kids and they managed to find much to enjoy, though the hotel pool was right up there with their favourite things about the trip. Several of the wineries double as farms, so kids can see alpacas, pat sheep or goats or even explore a chicken coop (visit Lowe Wines for that!). Most have extensive grounds so there’s lots of room to run around outside. Many of the wineries also have some kind of ‘kids’ corner’ with colouring books and chalkboards to keep kids entertained. In town, one of the most kid-friendly cafes is Outside the Square, where there are highchairs, kid-sized tables and even colourful crafts for sale similar to what you’d find in an Oxfam or other NGO-run shop. It felt like Mudgee was really welcoming of kids, despite it’s food and wine-focussed adult appeal.

Where to stay

We stayed at Parklands Resort & Conference Centre, which I highly recommend. We got a great last minute deal so stayed for less than half the usual rate – so do that if you can! It’s located across from the racecourse on sprawling grounds on the edge of town, and is just at the start of the main road to the wineries. It has an oversized indoor pool (which was a godsend on one 42 degree day!) along with a Jacuzzi and sauna, and the rooms are really spacious. Ours had a double bed, a single bed and a foldout couch that could sleep two, so it was great for our family of four but could have really comfortably slept five! For a boutique hotel option if sans-kids, De Russie Suites looks gorgeous.

Travelling with kids at different ages

Hoi An with the kids

In the next few weeks my current bout of travel anticipation will culminate in several trips – a roadtrip to Mudgee (NSW wine country), then a couple of weeks in my old home (and ongoing obsession!) Southeast Asia, with time in Bangkok, Koh Chang and Kuala Lumpur.

On these holidays, our kids will be 3 and 5. I have a feeling (fingers crossed) it will be slightly easier this time than last time, and the time before that and the time before that… after all, they’re older and therefore should be easier, right?!! Here’s hoping, but in the meantime I thought I’d look back at some previous trips and compare the pros and cons of travelling with kids at different (young) ages.

Less than 6 months

Positives:

– They sleep alot during the day – this allows you to explore and eat out relatively easily. We had a surprisingly successful weekend in Singapore when our first was four months old – she spent alot of time in the day asleep in the stroller and we had a lot of opportunity to wander the Arab Quarter, Chinatown and Little India. It was easier then than it would have been a few short months later.

– They don’t need things sterilised if they’re breastfeeding exclusively and aren’t onto solids yet. Travel with a baby is much more simple before they move onto formula and food.

– They’re portable – they’re small enough be strapped into a Baby Bjorn rather than be carted around in a stroller, which makes things a bit freer and easier, especially in less developed places where strollers are harder to manoeuvre.

Negatives

– Sleep deprivation – with a newborn waking all night long, it makes it harder to relax and appreciate your surrounds (or be fully focussed on much during the day).

– The baby’s sleep routine  (if you have one) can be disturbed by getting in and out of different modes of transport all the time.

– They are at their most fragile, and susceptible to the heat and illness.

– They require frequent breastfeeding which isn’t always convenient, especially if you’re out and about in a heaving, hot and humid Asian city.

Between 6 months and 2 years

Positives

– Attention and help – at this age, kids are past the super fragile stage and are a bit more playful and smiley, so we found this was the time of receiving the most attention, hugs and whisking away by staff at cafes and restaurants. All our travel then was in Southeast Asia (where we were also living) so it might not be the case everywhere!

– Curiosity and learning – this was a time our kids explored and learnt alot, from roaming around temple grounds to sampling lots of different foods, like developing an appreciation for pho and snacking on dried river weed in Laos (mmm, green chips!). With all the curiosity came a relentless need to run around and a total inability to sit still anywhere, so this one hovers between being a positive for them and a negative for the parents!

Negatives

– This was the most intensive time in terms of sourcing milk and food, sterilising things, and needing ridiculous amounts of equipment. Between 6 months and one we had to source pureed food from restaurants and hotels, mostly in Vietnam. We would sometimes end up with strange, salty soups people would concoct for us, which was well meaning but sometimes not quite right. We found the best thing to do was to request boiled or steamed vegetables like carrots, then mash them up ourselves. Once they moved onto slightly more solid food, all things carbs became a godsend. Think baguettes and bowls of rice.

– They’re not quite old enough to appreciate things – this isn’t their fault of course(!) but sometimes we had travel experiences where we wished our kids were slightly older and able to enjoy certain things more. One example was a beach holiday in Khao Lak, near Phuket in Thailand, with our first when she was about 20 months old. We stayed at a huge resort with different pools and even waterslides, but she was a bit scared of the slides and favoured the smallest pool. We would love to be back in the same place now with our kids at 5 and 3, as we know they would absolutely love it. Another was when we were at an elephant park in Chiang Mai, when our oldest was 3 – we thought she’d be more excited, but she seemed a bit blase about the elephants and more focussed on the biscuits she was eating. Again, something that would’ve been better a year or two down the track.

Two kids: aged 1 and 3

When our kids were one and three, we’d not long moved back to Australia but were craving a return to Southeast Asia for a holiday (this may happen forever!). We ventured to Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Phnom Penh and Singapore, and in hindsight realise this was a bit too ambitious with such young kids. We’d just be settled in one place then we’d be moving onto the next, when it would’ve been better to stay put in one place for the majority of the time. At these ages, I’d recommend a one-destination kind of holiday.

Positives

– Car hire! One of the best things we did was hire our own car in Chiang Mai, complete with a car seat for the one year old. We drove outside town to the zoo, to the hilltop temple Doi Suthep and out into the Thai countryside. It was easier having the kids secured in the car than holding onto them in a tuk tuk or taxi, and they managed to sleep while we drove and explored.

Negatives

– Too much travelling takes its toll. At this age, we should’ve taken the kids to one place rather than packed a lot in, but although it was a difficult trip we still don’t regret it!

– Kids just want a swimming pool – we made the mistake of choosing a small, boutiquey kind of backpackery guesthouse in Chiang Mai, which was in a great location but didn’t have a pool, which we thought didn’t matter. It did. We ended up checking out and having a few days in the super luxurious Shangri-La, complete with ginormous swimming pool. The kids were so much happier! Talk about high standards….

– Heat, dehydration and food and water hygiene are all still important issues at this age. Our kids came down with a bug in Phnom Penh which saw our one year old so dehydrated she was hospitalised for a few days once we reached Bangkok. Which sounds really dramatic but basically consisted of being hooked up to a drip and fed lots of rice porridge until back to normal again – after a few days she was good as new and we continued with the holiday. In the meantime, we took it in turns taking the three year old out and about and hanging out with friends who live in the city, which was really enjoyable. A positive is that the hospital situation in Bangkok for such incidents is really good –  we actually ended up back in the same hospital both of our kids were born in, so it was a bit nostalgia-tinged!

Two kids: aged 2 and 4

This time last year our kids were aged two and four, and we took them to Vietnam for a few days in Saigon and a longer stint in Hoi An. We managed to mix beach time with lots of food, exploring and culture in Hoi An’s beautifully preserved Old Town, and overall this was a far more successful trip than the previous one.

Positives:

– Our youngest was far more independent and able to run around and explore alot more than on previous trips, while our four year old was far more outwardly focussed and observant of the world around her. She noticed alot more, asked lots of questions, was more interactive with people and got much more out of travelling than when she was three. The difference between three and four was huge!

– The kids could play with each other alot more. The previous year, our youngest was essentially still a baby, but this time she could play with her sister on the beach and in the pool.

Negatives:

– The last days of nappies and strollers – we still had a bit of ‘baby’ equipment to lug around.

– Tiredness – the youngest still needed a day sleep and sometimes even fell asleep while out at an early dinner.

For our upcoming trips with our now 3 and 5 year old kids, I am anticipating the following:

Positives:

– No more baby equipment (yay!). This will be our first family holiday without lugging a stroller around, and with no-one in nappies (or even swimming nappies). Our youngest is out of a cot too, so no need to organise for our hotel rooms to have cots either. On Koh Chang, we are staying in a bungalow with two double beds so the kids have their own. There’s been a lot of bed sharing in the last few years on our family trips, so this sounds like a pretty good setup!

– Screentime on the plane – this time last year, our then two year old had zero interest in anything screen-related on a plane ride from Sydney to Vietnam. Which meant I had to think of other ways to entertain her the entire way. Did I mention I was flying alone with the kids on this trip (we met my husband there as he was already over there for work)? Fun times! At three, our youngest has changed immensely and actually has a concentration span. This time around, the kids will hopefully watch lots of movies and TV shows!

Negatives:

– Potentially carrying the kids around alot – although I’m excited about finally travelling pramless, it is inevitable we’ll end up having to carry the kids around when they get tired. Not so much at the beach, but in the cities where we’ll no doubt end up walking long distances.

– The kids are now old enough to fight with each other(!)

As for the rest, we’ll have to wait and see, but I’m hoping it’ll be our most successful trip yet. I keep hearing how between 6 and 12 are the ‘golden years’ of family travel. Only a few more years and we’re there!

Do you have any family travel tips for different ages? Or an age range you’ve found the easiest for travel? Please share!

Eating out with kids in Vietnam

Hoi An - great for families

I was recently interviewed by Rachael from All Abroad Baby on my best tips for eating out in Vietnam with kids. If you’ve been reading since A Girl in Asia days, you may know we lived in Vietnam for a couple of years, moving there from Cambodia with one baby then having a second towards the end of our time in Vietnam. We definitely did our fair share (and then some) of eating out in Vietnam with babies and toddler in tow, and enjoyed taking them back this time last year for a holiday (especially great as they were (just) over that stage of having to explore every restaurant instead of stay at the table!). Overall, I highly recommend family travel in Vietnam – there are so many wins, from fresh, wholesome food to kind, tolerant people.

Read on for my tips and thoughts on food issues in Vietnam, from hygiene fears to ordering options to attitudes to kids in cafes:

What options are there for eating out with kids?

So many! From street-food stalls to high-end restaurants and five-star hotels, and everything in between. There are a lot of family-run restaurants, but if you’re new to the region and a little unsure, a good start is a Vietnamese chain, like Pho 24 or Wrap & Roll, which have a fantastic selection of spring rolls and other local snacks served up in a clean environment.

Of course, there are restaurants running the gamut of most popular international cuisines, but if you’re in Vietnam for a short time you should probably forego pizza for phở (noodle soup) or steak for bò lá lốt (beef wrapped in pepper leaf).

Is it safe for kids to eat out in Vietnam?

In our time living in Vietnam with a baby, and eventually, a toddler and a newborn (and when we returned on a family holiday late last year), we were lucky to not have any food or drink-related illnesses (though this has occurred elsewhere in South East Asia and it’s not pretty!).

Generally, food is prepared hygienically, ice in drinks is manufactured from bottled water and ingredients are extremely fresh, with most people shopping daily for meat and fresh produce. Even my much-frequented ‘pineapple lady’ at a local market used to sit carving sweet, juicy pineapples wearing disposable gloves, preparing the fruit on a meticulously clean table (despite the dogs, flies and muddy surrounds!).

In fact, contrary to some travel advice, the street food in Vietnam is some of the freshest, healthiest options as the dishes are mostly cooked to order, prepared in front of you and using just-bought produce. Once, when our first baby was about eight months old, a Vietnamese friend bought some quail eggs and noodles from a street vendor and started feeding her without me realising! And guess what? She was totally fine!

What kind of kid-friendly foods are available?

It depends how fussy your kids are, but spring rolls – either fried or fresh – are often winners, as are the many Vietnamese noodle dishes available. Bánh xèo is a crispy pancake filled with prawns, pork and bean sprouts. It’s delicious and not spicy at all (before condiments are added). Our kids have enjoyed this at local restaurants.

Grilled meats can also be a hit. And of course, there’s rice! Lots of western-style cafes have things like dips with vegetable sticks and healthy sandwiches, or the old kid-friendly standby – fries. Most kids will love the array of fresh juices on offer too, which are so much healthier than the preservative and sugar-laden manufactured kind. For hydration on a typical humid day in Vietnam, a coconut sipped with a straw is novel and delicious for most visiting children.

What are people’s attitudes to kids in cafes and restaurants like?

Overall, Vietnamese diners are extremely warm and welcoming of children, often noticeably more than at home. In terms of facilities, some high-end or westernised restaurants may have highchairs available, but many don’t, so if you have older babies or toddlers, you may like to bring a fabric tie-on seat to use. On a holiday when our youngest was just over one, it was the most useful thing – no squirming toddler on our laps while eating, and she felt secure and comfortable (while the attention span at the table lasted anyway!).

Generally, young children are doted on in public places in Vietnam, and if you have a baby, people may want to touch or hold them, which can turn out to be a useful thing! Your kids may also be given free things to eat as ‘treats’ by well-meaning strangers, and these will usually be something sweet, or packets of chips!

What if I need to change my baby’s nappy or breastfeed?

Nappy changing facilities are few and far between, so you’ll have to improvise with a portable change mat (another recommended must-bring). Unlike in Australia – or even places like Singapore – it’s rare (or even impossible) to find a dedicated breastfeeding space, so again, improvisation is necessary.

I never felt entirely comfortable breastfeeding in public in Vietnam, unless I had a big sarong or scarf covering my baby (which was awkward and hot). I think it was because I never saw local women breastfeeding in public, like it wasn’t the done thing (Vietnamese women have a long period of rest at home after having a baby, and many switch to formula quite early, believing it to be better for the baby, from what I’ve heard from Vietnamese friends anyway).

Any cafes in particular that you recommend for families?

Generally, most places (aside from trendy wine and cocktail bars with restaurants or very high-end establishments) are kid-friendly, though even some of these are fine if you go in the late afternoon! Some standout venues include Snap Cafe in Saigon, complete with outdoor playground, yard and kids menu, and Dingo Deli in Hoi An, which as you can probably guess has an Australian influence (it’s run by an Australian/Canadian family). It features a fantastic wooden playground structure, a sandpit, swings, and even a flying fox.

Parks with playgrounds are few and far between in Vietnam, so cafes with playgrounds are a godsend for small kids to let off some steam. At beach destinations in Vietnam, there are often places to eat right on the sand, which kids (and adults) love. Generally, most cafes cater to kids in some way, though you may need to explain what a babycino is (and you’ll often receive a cup of hot frothless milk if you do!). Overall, Vietnam is exceedingly family-friendly, and you may even find eating out is less of a hassle than it is at home!

This post was originally published on All Abroad Baby.

Siem Reap’s Hotel de la Paix

Our room – complete with bed for baby

This was all ours – so relaxing!

Earlier in the week we paid a flying visit to Siem Reap and were fortunate enough to stay at the ultra chic Hotel de la Paix. What can I say but…wow! And no, they’re not paying me to say this!

Designed by the brains behind Bangkok’s Bed Supperclub, the hotel combines art deco style with Khmer touches, creating a unique and highly stylish look and feel. Our room was a two-level loft with a spiral staircase leading up to two massage tables for in-room spa treatments, with doors leading out to a private terrace complete with outdoor bathtub. The room itself had a rainforrest shower, iPod and speakers, WiFi, the most comfortable pillows ever and a spacious lounge area.

Beyond the room was an amazing pool with art-deco inspired columns and so many nooks and crannies to swim around and into. It was surrounded by lush tropical foliage like frangipani trees and traveller’s palms, with loungey day beds to chill out on. So blissful, even if our baby had to sit in a stroller poolside while we had a quick swim (things aren’t as simple as they once were!).

We also decided to finally dine at Meric, the hotel’s chic restaurant, after hearing good things about it for ages but for some reason never quite making it. It was worth the wait. While there is a set menu of innovative takes on Khmer food, we opted for the gourmet European menu and indulged in spice crusted beef tenderloin and sea scallops with cauliflower puree and citrus and licorice sauces. For dessert we shared a flourless chocolate cake with a runny centre (delicious) and bitter chocolate sorbet.The lighting, the decor and the atmosphere created a sophisticated vibe, and the food was excellent. Meric is a true culinary gem in Siem Reap and I highly recommend it!