{Behind the Blog} Niamh of Irish Wanderings

Niamh having a fish foot massage in Thailand (squirm!)

A writer, blogger and ex-expat, Niamh Griffins of Irish Wanderings once called Thailand home (among other places) – a former Girl in Asia! Now back in Ireland, she’s rediscovering her homeland, and makes me realise that returning home need not mean the adventures are over. Read on for more on Niamh

Where do you live/where are you now?
I moved back to Ireland 14 months ago after a few (cough) expat adventures. Falling in love again with soft days, mountains and learning to tolerate the rain.

Misty Ireland

Antrim, Ireland

What are you currently…

…reading?
The Lovers by John Connolly and no, it’s not as soppy as you’re thinking. It starts as a cop thriller but soon draws in ghosts and demons. This is where I take a break from reality while pretending to be gritty.

…listening to?
Pages from Julie Feeney. I discovered her browsing around YouTube and then realized she’s Irish and brilliant! Songs that stick in your head for all the right reasons and her videos are really creative.

…watching?
I finally worked out why everyone loves Mad Men and am now addicted. I find myself wondering what I’d look like in gloves and a twinset but not sure if they’d go with the battered Converse.

…eating?
My version of Thai food – I lived there for 9 years and my tastebuds just can’t handle food without chilli and coriander! I shop at the ‘Asian Market’ which looks like someone hovered up food from supermarkets in every country in Asia and spat it all out on a Dublin sidestreet.

…wearing?
Fake Uggs, jeans with long-john thermals underneath and a woolly jumper – with sunnies because it’s trying to be spring here in Dublin.

…planning?
To take over the wor…Oh, sorry, must keep that a secret! Seriously, this is the summer of getting to know Ireland. Shamefully there are still counties (states) I haven’t been to so lots of picnics, hikes and cold-water swims are on the agenda.

…obsessed with?
Dan Carter from New Zealand. Even if he played golf I’d love him. But as he plays rugby well, let’s just say the obsession grows. From a distance mind, I’m not dangerous!

Favourite cuisines?
Thai, Thai and Thai. I especially love Isan food from the North-east – heaps of chillies and sticky rice. There’s a vegetarian place in Bangkok called Mai Kaidee and it is the best food in the world. So there. But Mexican is a close favourite – there’s nothing like steaming refried beans with rice on a winter’s day.

Favourite travel destinations?
I love the buzz in Delhi, Sydney, New York … and Bangkok of course. And then I’m a big nature lover – hiking and trying to do water-sports so Himalayas, the West of Ireland and well, anywhere that’s clean and you can scream and splash water about!

Niamh in the Indian Himalaya

If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
I’ve been getting a craving to live in India lately. It keeps popping up in conversations and appearing out of the side of my eye. And even though I lived in Sydney for two years, I never made it to New Zealand and that would be a great adventure for a year. The people are so lovely, I’ve great friends there, it’s beautiful and they love sport, yay!

Who/what inspires you?
I’m always inspired by women who’ve taken their lives, shaken it up and made a difference to people around them. Someone like social entrepreneur Caroline Casey who’s changing the way we see differently abled people. But also my Mum who grew up in a very sexist time in Ireland, traveled the world anyway and tries her best to make my siblings and I into nice people.

3 of your must-read blogs?
Aagh, what a choice! Obviously I love this one! But for traveling and dreaming I read:
Paddy in BA for photos and news from a wandering expat
Peregrine by Nature for beautiful photos that always make me stop and think
Shantiwallah for little insights that make me realize it is possible to stay in one place and be happy!

Thanks Niamh!

{eat pray love} Will you see the movie?

I’m really looking forward to seeing Eat Pray Love the movie when it comes out later this year (not til August apparently). I did enjoy the book – overall – but I somehow can’t relate to Elizabeth Gilbert’s personal journey and all her angst. I also think it’s kind of funny that she’s supposedly ‘risking everything’ and on an ‘incredible journey’ when she’s just travelling/living in 3 places for 12 months. That’s great, but also kind of normal. Isn’t it?! Anyway – I still look forward to seeing how the book will come to life on the big screen, and will probably want to book a ticket to Ubud straight afterwards (my current fixation by the way!). What about you – did you enjoy the book and will you see the movie?

{behind the blog} Charlie Hunton of Sea Circus


Some of the art that will grace Sea Circus’ stylish walls
The second installment of ‘behind the blog’ profiles Charlie Hunton of Sea Circus – also the name of her new Bali-based restaurant (think a design blog come to life!). Her blog showcases the aesthetics and inspiration behind the evolution of the restaurant, plus snapshots of the best bits of Bali life.

Where do you live/where are you now?
I’m lucky enough to say that I live in Bali – ‘the island of the gods’.
What are you currently…

…reading?
I’m reading ‘The food of love’ by Anthony Capella. I have only just started it but already it has whisked me away to the backstreets of Rome. The love triangle is as delicious as the Italian food, and Capella’s writing is as witty as ever… although the coffee geek in me slightly prefers his other book ‘The various flavours of coffee’ which has one of the most uncontrollably funny protagonists I have ever read. A must.
…listening to?
The Eden CDs. The origins of this collection are uncertain, but rumours say this is a 5CD set of CD-R’s that James Lavelle left behind at the 2003 eden festival. It’s a brilliant collection of unkle mixes or unkle related recordings. I’m currently putting together the restaurant playlist so have lots of friends sending me new/rare/classic music. Any music suggestions are welcomed and encouraged…
…watching?
Well literally I’m watching endless parades of Balinese hindus marching to the temple – they have taken over the streets with incense, gamulan music, flags and floats. Each village is going together to prepare their village temples for ‘nyepi’ – the silent day. The Balinese believe this is the day that evil spirits fly over the island so they try to make the island look dead so that the spirits pass over. Yhey turn off all the electricity – so it looks like no one’s home. You are also meant to be really quiet and no one is allowed out of their house [apart from the local ‘pacalan’ who patrol the streets intervening mischievous/disrespectful tourists].

…eating?
The best mie goreng in Bali – in my current favourite jaunt, ‘biku’.

…wearing?
Shorts and tee and it’s still too hot!

…planning?
A grand opening party for my new restaurant ‘Sea Circus’. The date is April Fool’s. The theme is ‘circus freak’ so I am planning staff outfits, entertainers, prizes, surprises, food, wine, music, guestlist, photographer, press… oh and designing my own costume too [i am the lion tamer!].

…obsessed with?
The perfect cup of coffee [literally taken out a small mortgage on my beautiful new synesso cyncra coffee machine and electronic mazzer grinder].

Favourite cuisines?
I love the balance of Japanese food – unlike many other cuisines it feels so good for you and tastes so subtly delicious. I also love the current trend of smaller share dishes; I always like to try lots of different tastes and flavours and love the social ritual that goes with sharing food, so the concept for my restaurant is ‘sharing’ with a focus on seafood.

Favourite travel destinations?
So many, too many, and far too many more on the list. But the place I kind of want to go to every time I travel is France; I’ve lived in its mountains, by its sea and in its beautiful capital city. and I adore it. Laid back surf sessions in Hossegor, crazy summer fetes in Pays Basque, apperos with farmers in Correze, l’opera and l’entrecote in Bordeaux, chateaus and aristo’s in le Loire… and then there’s Paris. My head still seems to be stuck in the rues pavees of le 14eme.

If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
In South America – where I would do nothing but dance salsa and speak Spanish.

Who/what inspires you?
When Gene Wilder was Willy Wonka – ‘We are the music makers and we are the dreamers of dreams.’

3 of your must-read blogs?
These women are 3 of the many that inspire me on a daily basis.
Thanks Charlie!

{behind the blog} Leela Cyd

Welcome to my latest series on A Girl in Asia – ‘behind the blog’ – delving into the people behind some of the blogs I love to read, and perhaps you do (or will!) too.
First to be profiled is Leela Cyd, whose eponymous blog has a strong food and travel bent and chronicles her adventures with her husband as they traverse the globe. I met up with Leela on her Saigon stint a couple of months ago, and she’s as friendly, fun and creative in real life as she is in her blog!



Behind the blog: LEELA CYD
Where do you live/where are you now?
I am based out of Portland, Oregon in the US, but have been living out of my suitcase for the past 6 months on a big trip – stopping for lengthy visits (renting a flat) in India, Vietnam and now, Istanbul, Turkey. I’m currently sitting on a peach-colored Victorian sofa in our flat in the Nisantasi neighborhood in Istanbul. I love this city!
What do you blog about?
I blog primarily about food (mainly recipes I’ve developed), travel and everything that happens in between. My blog is also a home for my travel articles and images I sometimes post/feature on other sites.
What are you currently…
…reading?
I am reading a wonderful book called “Istanbul, City of the World’s Desire” by Phillip Mansel about the city and its colorful history under the rule of the Ottoman Empire. For anyone traveling to Turkey or interested in history, it is a fabulous account.
…listening to?
I listen to music sure – the Beatles and Sam Cooke mostly, but more often – I listen to podcasts. I love this American Life, Good Food (KCRW, hosted by Evan Kleiman), Savage Love (Dan Savage), Npr’s culturetopia and food stories . . . as well as books on CD. I love the feeling of being read to. And with all my podcasts, I can feel connected to something familiar – mostly American stories – while being so far away. I just cannot bring myself to do the dishes or other house chores without listening to a story.
…watching?
My favorite show is HBO’s the Wire. we just re-watched a few of our favorite seasons (1 and 3) and it was still so good. A warning though – this show is hugely addictive, I don’t recommend getting involved with it unless you are prepared to spending your evenings completely glued. We also just found a new site that streams interesting art films from various sources – www.ubu.com and watched a film about Iran by Albert Lamorisse (the same person who made ‘The Red Balloon’). It was an amazing film which he died shooting, in a tragic helicopter accident.
…eating?
I’m super into lentil soup right now – it is sold all over Istanbul for only 2 dollars (US) a bowl and it is so satisfying and simple. They use a lot of lemon and dried mint, so it has a unique flavor I’ve never had in a lentil soup before. It’s the perfect dinner when paired with a nice crusty piece of bread.
…wearing?
I’m actually wearing a Turkish house dress. In every new country we visit, I buy at least one article of night-time wear, be it pajamas or a night gown or house coat of some sort, and wear it around the hotel or apartment we are staying at. It’s a great way to get a slice of local life and it’s very cozy.
…planning?
I’m planning a way to teach vegetarian cooking classes when we arrive home to Portland in June.
…obsessed with?
finding the perfect slice of cake. i love cake.
Favourite cuisines?
Turkish, Indian, Vietnamese, Italian – I don’t think I’ve met a certain cuisine I didn’t like. I’m a devout eater, and will try anything not involving animals.
Favourite travel destinations?
Panjim, Mumbai, Bangalore and Belur/Halebidu in India, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Sevilla, Spain, Amsterdam (where my husband and I really fell in love), New York City, Santa Barbara (my hometown!), California, Istanbul and of course, Portland, Oregon.
If you could live anywhere in the world for a year, where and why?
I’d live in New York City, it’s a playground for adults – there’s so much good food, art and fashion all in one place … I don’t think I’d run out of fun there. Especially if I was living in a fantasy world where money flowed like a river straight into my pocket.
Who/what inspires you?
My family and my husband inspire me the most to dream big and work hard – my parents are both teachers, artists and writers – my brother the most creative writer and teacher I know, and, lastly, my husband Dave is my favorite painter, thinker, dreamer in all of the world. His interest in seeing, tasting and experiencing everything to the fullest is my biggest inspiration, especially during this crazy travel period of our lives.
3 of your must-read blogs?
I love — thekitchn.com (not really a blog)
garancedore.fr/en — French Fashion glamour lady writing, photos and illustration at its best
eatingisart.com — Tricia’s love of food, art, health and design come together in her amazing site. She is an inspired individual, and good friend in Portland.
Thanks Leela!

At the moment I’m…

Watching: True Blood (quirky, sordid and much better than Twilight!)

Reading: The 4-hour work week by Timothy Ferris (lots of interesting ideas…)
Perusing: new home/decor online mag Lonny (lots of pretty pics and inspiration)
Drinking: Spicy chai (with Cambodian palm sugar and milk)
Eating: Pizza and cookies (but making salad tonight to compensate!)
Loving: 40,000 dong tops and 50,000 dong pedicures (we’re talking $2-3!)
Looking forward to: A trip to Phnom Penh in a few weeks (dying for a brownie from The Shop and stocking up at Russian Market, Bliss, Ambre etc. etc….!)
….how about you?

A couple of cool blogs

My Google Reader subscriptions are getting out of hand… I now have so many great blogs I subscribe to that I spend way too much time reading them all! I follow blogs on fashion, writing, design, food, media and travel, including some others of the ‘girl in Asia’ genre, like ‘Bali Beach Bunny’ and ‘Lost in Translation’ – two cool blogs I’ve recently become acquainted with.

Bali Beach Bunny is written by a girl in her mid-20s who is embarking on a very jealousy-inducing venture – opening her own cafe in Bali with her boss-turned-boyfriend (sounds like a novel in the making!). Her blog is a window into her new life and setting up a business in Bali from scratch. I’m looking forward to seeing how it all comes to be and following her adventures along the way.
Lost in Translation is by a girl named Viv from Montreal. She recently spent a year living in Seoul but is now living back in Montreal – remembering all the quirks and cool things about living in Asia, but also posting on her new life at home and pop culture bits and pieces. Lost in Translation is her favourite movie (one of mine too!) and her experiences in Seoul are very Scarlett Johansson’s Charlotte!
I wonder what else is out there I’m yet to discover?!

A quiet refuge

On Saigon’s Ton That Thiep Street (home to Temple Club, Fanny ice-cream, Cantina Central and some cute homeware stores) sits a Hindu temple, enclosed by a concrete yellow wall. Inside, it is a peaceful refuge adorned with colourful patterned tiles, faded framed pictures and old mirrors. There’s a central shrine with requisite flashing lights, kitsch and colour, and some quirky little masks with a tribal look.



Except for a few people tending the grounds (arranging flowers, tidying the shrines) it’s pretty much deserted. Suddenly the roar of the motorbikes outside is dulled and you’re no longer in the centre of what has to be one of the noisiest cities in the world. The icing on the perfect escape cake would be a restaurant on the grounds like at the Dong Du Street mosque!


Spotted in Saigon…



Sights like these were common in Cambodia, but I haven’t seen too many overloaded cyclos or makeshift vehicles joining the motorbiking masses on Saigon’s heaving streets. I saw this guy while walking through District 3 and couldn’t resist taking a pic – he waved just at the right moment!